tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-24075826065213178262024-02-07T02:33:09.023+00:006mm Fantasy & Sci-Fi6mm Fantasy Wargaming Models & Tutorials.
Now with 100% more Small Scale Gothic Sci-fi! Rexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17650208351837081612noreply@blogger.comBlogger33125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2407582606521317826.post-32517237194942177162022-08-02T00:19:00.002+01:002022-08-02T00:22:55.752+01:00Epic 30k Horus Heresy: Space Marine Forward Operating Base (FOB)<p>Its been a long minute since I last posted. I've not painted anything for Epic in quite a long time. I finished Uni during lockdown, left one job and started another (and been there over a year now!) and hurt my eye for which I am now waiting on an operation (which is delayed due to the huge backlog at the hospitals, again due to the lockdowns). Its been a long, tough couple of years! And thus, why I've not been able to paint anything for Epic!<br /><br />I've managed to moderate my eye issue, at least enough to be able to work on some of my larger scale hobby projects (Like building terrain for Necromunda and buying up every miniature ever for wargaming in Middle Earth!) but I just haven't been able to do anything small scale or paint! I'm hoping that I can get back to it soon- because not painting hasn't meant not buying! I've been stocking up on more and more Epic minis and managed to snag some good ebay deals, brought some of the newer offerings from vanguard and stocked up on some more metal casts from onslaught (due to their last update was that they were moving over to 3d printed troops) <br /><br />I brought all the sets for the Vanguard Miniatures 3d printed <a href="https://vanguardminiatures.co.uk/shop/novan-elites-forward-operating-base-fob/" target="_blank">Forward operating base.</a> The main base comes with all the walls, gateways and walkways and I also brought the <a href="https://vanguardminiatures.co.uk/shop/novan-elites-fob-upgrade-bunker-with-dish/" target="_blank">extra bunker</a> and <a href="https://vanguardminiatures.co.uk/shop/novan-elites-fob-upgrade-bunker-heavy-ordnance-turret/" target="_blank">additional weapon</a>. </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPGQjHBx6-MazmEZQGHrydCOhAuOZTQIO9NajA0Kbs2DFaG-RGja5RQWWLy3sh7wuW9PfGUeGSfMBYY3AhUucM6xibHilp_k_eMsgW1gL3SQHojEAl1hhJAr6N_twAmgfTEYI5Ir_fhoTI6jNVvfTuIk8QwJUeyhFBE_J_snFBUAIK5Gjc4rEUxuyv/s4032/20220801_231327.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPGQjHBx6-MazmEZQGHrydCOhAuOZTQIO9NajA0Kbs2DFaG-RGja5RQWWLy3sh7wuW9PfGUeGSfMBYY3AhUucM6xibHilp_k_eMsgW1gL3SQHojEAl1hhJAr6N_twAmgfTEYI5Ir_fhoTI6jNVvfTuIk8QwJUeyhFBE_J_snFBUAIK5Gjc4rEUxuyv/w640-h480/20220801_231327.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Forward Operating Base (FOB)</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSQeMSdRWMl40U0XZe5J7WuIBi_YueneZ2XvU5s71RyV33O-S_Vzn8YcF4ZH3pEjV9SWGUM8BtdufLlCYsfDUUzgOF6qW6fDbcNU0UWP6U-qSYC9a8xPSLFsUJgjBSGtvGj6OCh7HKnLoLTN69eQn46bOv-VYw-jPqZB5fe9pL1MMXowKdfAjQQf6_/s2525/20220801_231405.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2525" data-original-width="1699" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSQeMSdRWMl40U0XZe5J7WuIBi_YueneZ2XvU5s71RyV33O-S_Vzn8YcF4ZH3pEjV9SWGUM8BtdufLlCYsfDUUzgOF6qW6fDbcNU0UWP6U-qSYC9a8xPSLFsUJgjBSGtvGj6OCh7HKnLoLTN69eQn46bOv-VYw-jPqZB5fe9pL1MMXowKdfAjQQf6_/w430-h640/20220801_231405.jpg" width="430" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Forward Operating Base (FOB) with Bunker & Dish add-on<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><br />This is the first proper 3d printed model I've ever brought and the quality is pretty impressive. A little bit of work will be needed to get a better fit of the parts- mostly on the two gates, they need a little bit taken off the edge to fit in the gateway properly and the bunker roof is a little too snug. But almost all the support connection points are completely gone, and there are just one or two that need a bit of sanding to get a smooth base- though the supports were all hidden on the bottom of the wall sections. <br /><br />The walls are designed to take magnets and are nicely marked up already to easily get them done so. But I'm probably just going to build the model into one, possible two sections at most as I don't want the hassle of rebuilding the kit for each game. Really, there is really only one or two configurations that work without buying multiple wall kits and so I don't feel the need to magnetise. <br /><br />Adding the bunker does leave you with 3 wall sections left over though. I did toy with the idea of magnetising a single section of the base and turning the three left over walls into 'battle damaged' sections, but honestly I have enough to build and paint as it is and that kind of additional work will just delay me ever getting this on to the tabletop! The three extra walls are a little wasteful, however I'd not expect a discounted set for buying the bunker add-on with the walls as the profit margin for vanguard must already be pretty slim on this set (As I believe he is out sourcing his physical 3d printed models!) and the total wasn't really that expensive for all three parts. I'm likely to pop the spare walls into storage and if we see any new add-ons for this kit in the future, I'd likely buy another and consider buying and magnetising another to have one for new add-ons! </p><p></p><p>Sizewise the kit is an impressive structure compared to a lot of standard looking Epic 40k buildings/6mm terrain, but its not so large as to totally dominate most standard gaming tables. <br /><br />The kit comes with the additional metal turret parts needed to finish off the outside of the walls. These are a really nice touch that you'd not get with buying from 3d printer outlets. </p><p></p><p>The kit is what I would describe as 'Gothic Neutral', meaning that there is nothing in the design that forces it to be a proxy kit for something in the 40k universe and nothing else. It would definitely fit in with most generic sci-fi universes/genres. <br /><br />Overall I'm pretty happy with the kit! It looks great and far better than I can scratch build myself but there is enough blank space on the kit to let me add some of my own detailing to customise and personalise the base to match the rest of my terrain! <br /><br /><br /></p>Rexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17650208351837081612noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2407582606521317826.post-8986055448444323852021-02-11T17:53:00.008+00:002022-08-01T18:06:11.922+01:00Epic 40k Ork Battlewagon <div dir="auto"><div class="ecm0bbzt hv4rvrfc ihqw7lf3 dati1w0a" data-ad-comet-preview="message" data-ad-preview="message" id="jsc_c_13n"><div class="j83agx80 cbu4d94t ew0dbk1b irj2b8pg"><div class="qzhwtbm6 knvmm38d"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql lr9zc1uh a8c37x1j fe6kdd0r mau55g9w c8b282yb keod5gw0 nxhoafnm aigsh9s9 d3f4x2em iv3no6db jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v b1v8xokw oo9gr5id hzawbc8m" dir="auto"><div class="kvgmc6g5 cxmmr5t8 oygrvhab hcukyx3x c1et5uql ii04i59q"><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;">I'm back at college, and with work on top of that as well I'm totally swamped again, so no more batch painting for a long while. But I'm still trying to take 5 mins a night to paint to relax. Slung enough paint around to get a single battlewagon finished for the ork army for Epic 40k. Battlewagon available from <a href="https://vanguardminiatures.co.uk/shop/skinners-flamethrower-tanks/" target="_blank">Vanguard Minis skinners range</a>. </div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"> </div></div><div class="cxmmr5t8 oygrvhab hcukyx3x c1et5uql o9v6fnle ii04i59q"><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyxG4eLN0tmnGOzPl0UiuvNw8ah-AVI-ei36VxCcVnb673lrZTG0b7rV6lIhQbxeojiVJMHjOotTPdAX9cSrAEqWKmuR4KFd8vtwFYezSu3ABXVML9sHTGnU1HLvmZi4P2_T3oPP8hCOzCJiojHQ7W240u8vQS7m0QZoEgAnYmUUPx7Ng948w87EuI/s1564/IMG_20210211_222641.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1564" data-original-width="1564" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyxG4eLN0tmnGOzPl0UiuvNw8ah-AVI-ei36VxCcVnb673lrZTG0b7rV6lIhQbxeojiVJMHjOotTPdAX9cSrAEqWKmuR4KFd8vtwFYezSu3ABXVML9sHTGnU1HLvmZi4P2_T3oPP8hCOzCJiojHQ7W240u8vQS7m0QZoEgAnYmUUPx7Ng948w87EuI/w640-h640/IMG_20210211_222641.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ork Battlewagon from Vanguard Miniatures<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidf6uxfZKXTBk5II6RD1plXvAB7nID8sG6G35gXtJonfsjpCvg22DYFIVZp1-2UKbmNQmeuEFqKyJGR0zMS7mQW5XA2K_58DDpJXRNV_8ycLKMV2gahsn9NjGorYHZUlal8rq-wOdQ4BKJOtLQf9Gmk_vkDqNHIwX1v4EsmA6htk8E0DMg6iQityYi/s960/149406270_2896689537317140_6869219622866632746_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="960" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidf6uxfZKXTBk5II6RD1plXvAB7nID8sG6G35gXtJonfsjpCvg22DYFIVZp1-2UKbmNQmeuEFqKyJGR0zMS7mQW5XA2K_58DDpJXRNV_8ycLKMV2gahsn9NjGorYHZUlal8rq-wOdQ4BKJOtLQf9Gmk_vkDqNHIwX1v4EsmA6htk8E0DMg6iQityYi/w640-h640/149406270_2896689537317140_6869219622866632746_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ork Wartrakk Skorcha (Plastic Epic 40k mini) and Battlewagon (Vanguard Minis) <br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;">I also brought a huge batch of grass tufts from <a href="https://www.tajima1.co.uk/tajima1-shop" target="_blank">tajima1 miniatures</a> last year and gambled on some of their small ones in dead and golden colours for use on my Epic 40k stuff and they turned out to be really, really nice! I used a lot of their small green ones on my 6mm fantasy before but wasn't sure if these colours would work on the Epic 40k models, but they are a great colour and match the normal static grass I use. Now just wish I'd ordered a lot more! Some of the best tufts I've found on the market so far! <br /></div></div></span></div></div></div></div><p> </p>Rexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17650208351837081612noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2407582606521317826.post-76414837750360075472020-10-03T10:54:00.013+01:002022-08-02T11:26:57.695+01:00Inq6 28Mag <p>I was asked to write an article on my Inq6 project, which has just
been published in the newest volume of '28' magazine. For those that
haven't seen 28 before, it's a free digital publication that covers the
more unique and grim dark aspects of the warhammer universes.
<br />
<br /> You can get Volume 3 (and the previous volumes) free from here: <a href="https://28-mag.com/2020/09/26/vol-3-is-here/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">https://28-mag.com/2020/09/26/vol-3-is-here/</a>
<br />
<br /> <a href="https://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/1080115-.html" rel="nofollow" target="_new"><img border="0" src="https://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2020/10/3/1080115_sm-.png" /></a>
<br /> <a href="https://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/1080114-.html" rel="nofollow" target="_new"><img border="0" src="https://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2020/10/3/1080114_sm-.PNG" /></a>
<br />
<br /> My gaming group had a 'big' Inq6 game/campaign planned for over the Easter holiday this year. This would have meant a brand new table being put together, but like most things this
year, that plan became kaput. I've painted up a fair bit of the Inq6
backlog now, though I've even more stuff that's been slowly
arriving/been built during the lockdown. <br /><br />I'm going to be pretty tied up
for the next 8-12 months (Uni/Work) but after that we will try to rearranged our
big campaign and get the new table done.
</p>Rexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17650208351837081612noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2407582606521317826.post-54132558710637707022020-08-10T08:32:00.018+01:002022-08-01T08:40:14.827+01:00Epic 40k Stompa<p>Instead of finishing the batches of infantry I was meant to be doing, I painted a stompa instead! I Picked up a few rarer models I'd been chasing down in a really good trade and these were sold as a bundle with one of the other models I'd been after. <br /><br />Didn't have any of the old metal ones, only the plastic ones, so pleased to have these to add to the collection! Its great to fill out my collection with some of the Oldhammer Epic sculpts as most of my collection is from the 1997 range onwards. <br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2020/8/10/1072966_sm-.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="619" data-original-width="600" height="619" src="https://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2020/8/10/1072966_sm-.jpg" width="600" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Epic 40k Oldhammer metal Stompa<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><br /> </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2020/8/10/1072965_sm-.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="561" data-original-width="600" height="561" src="https://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2020/8/10/1072965_sm-.jpg" width="600" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Epic 40k Oldhammer metal Stompa<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br />Rexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17650208351837081612noreply@blogger.com0Ireland53.1423672 -7.692053599999998624.832133363821157 -42.8483036 81.452601036178848 27.464196400000002tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2407582606521317826.post-73918356909517301082020-08-05T00:57:00.061+01:002022-08-01T01:14:46.409+01:00WiP Epic 40k Ork Squiggoth & Big Gunz (From Troublemaker Games/Vanguard Miniatures) <p>Painting some big batches of Orks for my Epic 40k forces, but painted a couple of my favourite models in-between batches for fun (and to save my sanity of painting 1000s of tiny orc teeth!). <br /><br />The Squiggoth is from troublemaker games feral skinner range (<a href="https://vanguardminiatures.co.uk/shop/tribal-skinners-finback-war-beasts/" target="_blank">Available from Vanguard Minis</a>). I swapped out the crew for some of the orks in the feral skinner character & troops packs. They are great minis but way too large to mix with the rest of my feral ork stuff I already own, but it's not noticeable when used as crew members in stead. The leftover crew can be mixed in with my feral stuff as they are a lot weedier in size. Not sure how I'm going to end up basing my feral ork force, don't know if I want it to match my regular ork army or do something different to mix it up. I will leave it until I have some more painted and make a decision afterwards. <br /></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2020/8/1/1071615_sm-.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="799" data-original-width="600" height="799" src="https://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2020/8/1/1071615_sm-.jpg" width="600" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Squiggoth <a href="https://vanguardminiatures.co.uk/shop/tribal-skinners-finback-war-beasts/" target="_blank">From Vanguard Miniatures</a><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2020/8/1/1071617_sm-.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="799" data-original-width="600" height="799" src="https://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2020/8/1/1071617_sm-.jpg" width="600" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2020/8/1/1071618_sm-.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="799" data-original-width="600" height="799" src="https://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2020/8/1/1071618_sm-.jpg" width="600" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2020/8/1/1071616_sm-.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="799" data-original-width="600" height="799" src="https://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2020/8/1/1071616_sm-.jpg" width="600" /></a></div><p></p><p>I also have around 100 big gunz and Kannons to paint, but I'm very likely
to flake out on them before getting any where near that amount done! But
made sure to pull the grot bomber (<a href="https://vanguardminiatures.co.uk/shop/gobblers-light-field-artillery/">Available from Vanguard Minis</a>)
out and do him first as I think this mini is fantastic! Going to add
the bad moon flames, but needed to leave it until my eyes are good and
rested and not try to get it done in the middle of the night! <br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2020/8/4/1072154_sm-.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="469" data-original-width="600" height="469" src="https://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2020/8/4/1072154_sm-.jpg" width="600" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grot Bomber From <a href="https://vanguardminiatures.co.uk/shop/gobblers-light-field-artillery/" target="_blank">Vanguard Miniatures </a><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></p><p> </p>Rexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17650208351837081612noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2407582606521317826.post-4951869629758401402020-07-13T23:37:00.001+01:002020-07-13T23:38:01.186+01:00 Epic 40k Urban Basing GoopI added 4 more stands of Marines to my Emperors Children Detachment, this time using the new <a href="https://vanguardminiatures.co.uk/shop/novan-elites-b-affray-squads/" target="_blank">Affray squad</a> sculpts from <a href="https://vanguardminiatures.co.uk/">Vanguard Miniatures</a>. The new sculpts are superb, far superior to the older ones. It's also a lot easier to paint the shoulder trim, now that it is sculpted on! <br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgooy57LBVkof6m9Q9QCiaEc89CbU7G-OYLlb10EQHr3cBuBP32GLEIcizvCpYAhdcNA7at9OQXR4vQXmlKk-CO-C7sMmPyZqgFO-nkmBOJUAgpU2JMEjvfGM-9kPak5OnJI1_3rXle1VE/s2048/IMG_20200712_192051.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="469" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgooy57LBVkof6m9Q9QCiaEc89CbU7G-OYLlb10EQHr3cBuBP32GLEIcizvCpYAhdcNA7at9OQXR4vQXmlKk-CO-C7sMmPyZqgFO-nkmBOJUAgpU2JMEjvfGM-9kPak5OnJI1_3rXle1VE/w625-h469/IMG_20200712_192051.jpg" width="625" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjf1tkLRvSM5fXd6h3fRBe9fXkG4j42TYe36yAlY7C6YoAYPvuLrAsj6c8OmAj849j3pXIvCXfrTe4HXfM23aL5MmxkWEIBxZUqkHfOQyRtLvah0womyuTEbkZULQ5o3_gFEbQCFjr-bA/s4160/IMG_20200712_192119.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4160" data-original-width="3120" height="625" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjf1tkLRvSM5fXd6h3fRBe9fXkG4j42TYe36yAlY7C6YoAYPvuLrAsj6c8OmAj849j3pXIvCXfrTe4HXfM23aL5MmxkWEIBxZUqkHfOQyRtLvah0womyuTEbkZULQ5o3_gFEbQCFjr-bA/w469-h625/IMG_20200712_192119.jpg" width="469" /><br /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Just waiting on the heavy weapons to be released so I can get to adding another batch! <br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">After posting these to around some of the forums & groups, a couple of people have asked how I did the basing. Rather than type it up each time, I thought I'd be lazy and type up the recipe here. It's extremely cheap to make, coming in at around €0.84 a pot of 24ml (Much cheaper than the Games workshop Astrogranite at €6.30 for the same volume of 24ml!) <br /><br />It does take a fair long while to dry, it's not as quick as the store brought stuff, but I've found it to be near on indestructible once dry and it will dry no matter how thick you goop it on- its great for covering the gaps between the model and the base. <br /><br />But it's mostly the price point is good for me (more money for more insane amounts of minis) & I like the DIY-ness to mixing up a new batch every now and then. <br /><br />My recipe is pretty much this: Coarse texture Gel from Reeves<br /></div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6_BBmRp155HzDd0zzHQiTn72HcpzXz1RTxqm7Rac9yFzGdcc6JUcJkYdWb4XWDBMkHijjHAoOrzWeIVV7thVbUdreJuYc5bteTBEsEu21na_suUvO7Up4RFE7QUwjRcv6MPBiVpXE2Yg/s1000/medium-coarse-texture-gel-p1556-25139_zoom.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6_BBmRp155HzDd0zzHQiTn72HcpzXz1RTxqm7Rac9yFzGdcc6JUcJkYdWb4XWDBMkHijjHAoOrzWeIVV7thVbUdreJuYc5bteTBEsEu21na_suUvO7Up4RFE7QUwjRcv6MPBiVpXE2Yg/w200-h200/medium-coarse-texture-gel-p1556-25139_zoom.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Had to grab a photo from online as my own photo taking skills suck so bad, I some how missed photographing the name of the gel!</i><br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I get mine from the local art shop, it's less than €10, but as a mature student I take advantage of my student discount and get it for a lot, lot less. <br /><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcpIZvl0Z0rPcJ1V9GcVFcwHjDdI01XzrM3DlR_CHGscqLCFgdIei-F_F5MIQGQHyxHUMn8RXvVe541P61Zf5d_Aj2YjNvNfJyTfqmL9ktsa_FVZ74m49lDb00MRWk5LeP2Dat1qS3vUo/s4160/IMG_20200713_191909.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="375" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcpIZvl0Z0rPcJ1V9GcVFcwHjDdI01XzrM3DlR_CHGscqLCFgdIei-F_F5MIQGQHyxHUMn8RXvVe541P61Zf5d_Aj2YjNvNfJyTfqmL9ktsa_FVZ74m49lDb00MRWk5LeP2Dat1qS3vUo/w500-h375/IMG_20200713_191909.jpg" width="500" /><br /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So the mix is roughly about: <br /><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Just less than 24ml of coarse texture Gel (leave room for the drops of paint!) <br /></li><li>8 large drops of the Dark Grey paint</li><li>8 drops of Black paint (I use 'small' drops as my measurements here, as the Vallejo comes out a lot smaller than the drops that come out the craft paint. You Basically want just less than half of what you used of grey)<br /></li></ul></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">It probably works in around the same price as the huge jars of Vallejo basing pastes, just with more effort, but making my own I can tweak the colours, I've used a bunch of different colours from the grey here I use most of the time, to Mars reds and my mud browns (Essential Skaven & Death Korps mud product!). <br /><br />The good stuff about my own mix is that the colour is nice and strong, I've yet to have to go back and paint over any of the bases (Though the downside is you have to be bloody careful when putting it on, as it will stain the model almost instantly, I keep a wet brush on standby for accidents but I've found the colour transfer can be almost immediate!) and the fact that you can use it to fill the gaps between the feet and the base, which will still dry at this thickness. I tend to leave it over night to dry just to be sure! <br /><br />Then its just a wash with black wash (massively thinned down, I just want to add some variation to the colour not darken it, though I've had some good results with a heavy brown wash too) then a light drybrush with an off white. I use one of the GW drypaints, I think they work rather well and I find white paint can look a bit too stark! <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcpIZvl0Z0rPcJ1V9GcVFcwHjDdI01XzrM3DlR_CHGscqLCFgdIei-F_F5MIQGQHyxHUMn8RXvVe541P61Zf5d_Aj2YjNvNfJyTfqmL9ktsa_FVZ74m49lDb00MRWk5LeP2Dat1qS3vUo/s4160/IMG_20200713_191909.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>Rexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17650208351837081612noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2407582606521317826.post-72129036751323416672020-06-13T12:25:00.001+01:002020-06-13T12:32:01.861+01:0010 Reasons Why E40K is Great!<i>This article was not written by me! Sadly, the original author is unknown to us, but if anyone knows where it originally comes from please let me know so we can link to the original instead! I'm reposting it here, as an easier way to point those that are interested in reading it or for new players asking about the quality of this edition! Having it collected on an easy to link post will save John, from over at <a href="https://vanguardminiatures.co.uk/" target="_blank">Vanguard miniatures</a>, from having to repost it in individual comments every time the 3rd Ed. rules are brought up on the <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/SMEPIC40K" target="_blank">Epic Space Marine 40k Middlehammer</a> group, over on facebook! </i><br /><br /><i>I've left the list as close to the original posting as it is from the source I've taken it from, though I will jiggle the format where I can to make it fit the blog better, as it was broken up into several long comments on faceboook. I've added my own stylisation to some of the paragraph breaks as well, tweaking them to fit better on the page, as the format was shoddy from copying from facebook- but the words remain all the original authors own. </i><br />
<i><br />Its long read, without any visual breaks. Perhaps if time allows, one day I'll add some visual flair to the whole page.</i><br />
<br />
<i>With thanks to the original author, for putting this piece together in the first place, to John @ Vanguard for championing this piece every time the Edition wars break out over on the forums and of course, AC, JJ and the rest of the folk behind the games creation. </i><br /><br />+++-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------+++<br /><br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<u>10 Reasons Why E40K is Great!</u></div><div style="text-align: center;"><u><br /></u></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifuKwytVfLE0h0VUReLJEDfSs3wsTs3Q2MNYuMB2XTBH4KXaHszNoptpp6PLGrfN2li8UuATPIrx43AG2PXFEdM-rCRvsVMNqaLgHvz2n1QN98xpF9GKDJ6pZN8X-dyAXSQQRs5OkCLv0/s840/epic40k-logo.gif" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="179" data-original-width="840" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifuKwytVfLE0h0VUReLJEDfSs3wsTs3Q2MNYuMB2XTBH4KXaHszNoptpp6PLGrfN2li8UuATPIrx43AG2PXFEdM-rCRvsVMNqaLgHvz2n1QN98xpF9GKDJ6pZN8X-dyAXSQQRs5OkCLv0/s320/epic40k-logo.gif" width="320" /></a></div> <br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span></span></span></span></span><div style="text-align: left;"><i><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span>The
other thread reminded me of why I enjoy Epic 40,000 so much, so I
thought I'd create a list. Please feel free to comment, discuss or come
up with your own entries.</span><span><br /></span></span></span></span></span></i></div><div style="text-align: left;"><i><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><br /></span></span></span></span></span></i></div><div style="text-align: left;"><i><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span>Let's start with #10...</span></span></span></span></span></i></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span> </span><br /><u><span></span></u></span></span></span></span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><u><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span>10: </span></span></span></span></span>Army Morale</span></u><br /><span>Army
morale was an excellent system that served to reward good strategy
while also providing a suspenseful timer to the game. I remember a lot of
games coming down to the wire (as in this one: link) with morale scores
neck and neck. Army morale was such a unique way to determine victory
because it allowed you to truly design any scenario that you could
imagine (and indeed, the recommended battle objectives made great use of
the morale system). It was also a great way to represent the overall
depletion and exhaustion of the force, in addition to the morale-like
effects for blast markers, pinning, retreats from combat and other
rules. You had to play smart and pull back damaged detachments or you
would find your army cohesion quickly unravelling and any hope of
achieving your mission becoming increasingly distant.</span><br /><span>No
other edition of the game even attempted to use something as advanced
as Epic 40,000 army morale, which makes it a unique and excellent
feature of the game.</span><br /><span>So the next item in the list was
actually higher up in the first draft, but I decided to move it here as
it is important to consider in all the points that follow.</span></span></span></span></span><i><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><br /><span>Without further ado, #9…</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></i></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><br /><u><span></span></u></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><u><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span>9:</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span>Ease, Simplicity and Speed</span></u></span><span><span><br /><span>While
not an actual rule per se, the simplicity and speed of the game
mechanics are carried through all the other rules. Epic 40,000 (or E40k,
from here on out) was designed to cut down on the bulk from the
excellent SM2/TL game (Space Marine 2nd Edition/Titan Legions). While
SM2 was a lot of fun and could play very big battles, it would also slow
down massively, especially once you added in the Titan rules from TL.
The prime design directive of E40k, then, was to boil the idea of truly
massive, epic-scale conflict down to a lightning fast play experience.
Given the scale of the game, the designers achieved this remarkably
well!</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><br /><span>Every action in E40k could be resolved by a single
die roll. No "roll to hit, roll to wound, roll to save"… Your attacks
would just be a toss of the dice and everything would be determined.
Close combat technically took two rolls (roll to see who wins, roll for
damage), it was also lightning quick. Rallying likewise only took a
single roll, and there was no rolling for other morale systems (of which
there are several, baked right into the game mechanics and operating
"underneath the hood," so to speak).</span><span> </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span> </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span>That E40k was able
to keep this simplicity given its extreme flexibility (more on this
later) was itself a feat. Your detachments included a vast array of
troops and vehicles, yet most infantry were simple variations on the
faction's basic infantry. E40k did this by assigning a special trait to
represent different versions of infantry. Thus, you would only need to
remember the basic Space Marine profile (there were only 5 "stats":
speed, range, firepower, assault and armour), and then modify it by the
universal special trait for heavy weapon units, jump troops,
infiltrators, assault troops and so on. Each trait pushed the basic unit
to be specialized for one battlefield task, allowing you to combo troop
types for tactical advantage (much, much more on this later!).</span><span> </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span>While
you could play very tiny, small scale games (which was a ton of fun),
E40k was really at its best handling truly massive armies. Despite being
contained in a digest-sized book that was physically 50% smaller than
SM2's core rulebook, the page count of the E40k rules was only
three-quarters that of SM2, totalling some 48 A5 pages. It could play as
big as SM2, but only a lot more quickly and with a lot less referring
back to the rules and army rosters. While the simplicity chafed some, it
also enabled a new way to play on an epic, strategic scale. Ironically,
when the game's predecessor SM2 came out, a lot of players jumped ship
from Warhammer 40k to Space Marine 2nd Edition, precisely because it was
a micro-version of the former and made Warhammer 40k redundant for many
people. E40k is distinctly not a micro-version replacement Warhammer
40k—rather, it complimented Warhammer 40k 2nd Edition while providing an
entirely new experience of warfare on a planetary scale.</span><br /><span> </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<i><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span>Epic 40k is what we're discussing here! To shed further light on that.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span> </span></span></span></span></i></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<i><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span>Let's continue on to #8…</span></span></span></span></i></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span> </span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><u><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span></span></span></span></span></u></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><u><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span>8:</span></span></span></span> The Close Combat System</u></span></span><span><span><span> </span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span>My favourite aspect of the close combat rules in E40k is the notion that a
single round of close combat represents an entire game of Warhammer 40k
being played out. This seemingly minor insight led Andy Chambers to
define the innovative relationship between the two games and come up
with several key ideas. For example, if a single close combat
represented an entire game of 40k, then a detachment (the maneuver
element in E40k) should represent an entire 40k army in miniature. Thus,
E40k detachments are not homogenous, but comprised of a mixture of many
different troop types (Land Raiders, Space Marine Scouts, Dreadnoughts,
Terminators, Assault Bikes and so on). Furthermore, if close combat
represented a 40k battle, then most infantry weapons would only be
effective at close combat ranges. Thus, there was no need to represent
small arms like bolters and lasguns in the normal shooting rules, making
a strategic difference between the heavy weapon assets in an army and
the regular line infantry. This was an important distinction that EA
carried on when it was released years later. This all may seem
unimportant, but the practical effect was to zoom the commander's view
in Epic 40k out to a strategic distance, lifting the player from the mud
and blood to see the bigger picture at an operational level.</span><span> </span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span> </span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span>The
close combat system itself was thus fairly simple, even abstract, but
the simplicity belies the amazing array of choices that a commander had
in front of him. In effect, when you issue an assault order, you may
move a detachment to close assault an enemy detachment. Each side counts
up the total assault scores of all units in base to base contact, adds 1
for each unit that is within 15cm support range (which represents small
arms fire at a distance of a typical 40k gaming table) and then
compares the values. If you exceed the enemy, you gain a +1, +2 or even
greater bonus on a opposed die roll to see which side "won" the close
combat (you also gain bonuses for attacking a well-suppressed enemy,
having more psykers in the combat and so on). The amount by which your
roll beats the enemy's die determines the target number for killing
enemy stands in base to base contact. For example, a roll that is 3 pips
higher than the opponent's roll results in the loser being "driven
off", with stands on the losing side taken casualty on a 3+, while the
winning stands fall only on a 5+. The loser then retreats 20cm and any
stands that cannot get at least 15cm away from an enemy are
automatically destroyed.</span><span> </span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span>At first blush, this just looks
like a numbers game with a bit of chance to it. There are an immense
number of strategies packed into this system, however, that rely both on
your detachment choices as well as your tabletop strategy. For example,
enemy stands block movement so that you cannot charge "past" or through
them. Stick them with a frontline unit, however, and you can burst
through the enemy's front lines with cavalry or jump troops to strike
deep into their formation at vulnerable units in the rear. This matters
not only for targeting low-assault enemy stands to increase your ratio…
Remember, only models in base contact can actually be destroyed in the
fighting. If you want to take out that pesky psyker or a 50 point
supreme commander (or even just some annoying artillery that has been
vexing you), this is how you do it. Because armour doesn't matter in
close combat (rather, kill chances are decided by the first die roll),
this is also the perfect way to take out heavy tanks… Get in close and
shove a few meltabombs up their tailpipes!</span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span> </span><br /><span>But that is
not all… Remember how retreating units that don't escape 15cm are
automatically destroyed? Flank wide with cavalry units and encircle the
enemy detachment from the rear. When the enemy flees, he will be falling
right into the arms of your cavalry picket lines. Want to keep the
enemy from doing the same thing to you? Be sure to keep some skirmishers
on your flanks to catch enemy flankers with the 10cm opportunity fire
rule.</span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span> </span><br /><span>Lining up your assaults and making sure you have
the right amount of assets (assault troops, but also close support
troops, cavalry, jump troops, infiltrators and so on) was an art form
that would make Sun Tzu blush. The best assaults were precision strikes,
following careful encirclement and suppression by artillery, that took
out marked targets and led the rest into deadly ambushes. It would not
be enough to say they simply required combined arms… Rather, the deeper
and more complex your appreciation of combined arms, the more
devastating your assaults. It was truly a system that was easy to learn,
yet difficult to master.</span><br /><span>Of course, many found the
single die roll to determine the overall victor was too swingy.
Admittedly, even Jervis Johnson himself changed this to a 2d6 roll in
his home games. Yet, the swing of the battles was better controlled by
another mechanism—the vital resource of the strategy cards, which we
will discuss next!</span></span></span></span></span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><br /><i><span>So
I lied, I decided that I am not going to do the cards system for #7, as
I like those rules too much to put them this early in the list.
Instead, let's talk about…</span></i><br /><span><br /><u>7: Initiative and the Turn Order</u></span></span><span><span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><br /><span>The
initiative system is admittedly nothing revolutionary. Indeed, this
humble little rule is best defined by its inherent simplicity. Yet, it
both "gets the job done" admirably and gives the higher initiative
player a well-defined but not overwhelming edge. On the operational
scale represented by Epic 40,000, initiative represents organizational
and command structure advantages. In game turns, this means the army
with the highest strategy rating (Space Orks have 3, Eldar have 5 and so
on) puts three tokens in a cup while the opponent puts only two. Each
turn, there are four times where you draw a token from the cup to
determine the order of play (movement, shooting with regular units,
shooting with titans and the assault phase). Thus, the army with the
lower strategy rating can at best hope to go first in two phases, while
the army with the higher strategy rating might go first in two or
sometimes three phases. This technique is a quick and dice-free way to
determine the order of play in each phase that gives a well-defined but
not overwhelming advantage to the more strategic and organized faction.</span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span> </span><br /><span>The
sequence of the game is an interesting mixture of alternating units AND
"I go, you go". The former is used for the two shooting phases, where
it is important to allow both players a chance to resolve shooting so as
not to give an undue advantage to the player with initiative that
phase. Players go back and forth picking one detachment and resolving
fire before passing the action back to the opponent. "I go, you go" is
reserved for the two movement phases (movement and assault), in order to
preserve the feel of grand maneuvers on an operational scale.</span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span> </span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span>Movement
in Epic 40,000 is not tit-for-tat, where you wait around to react to the
opponent's move, all the while shifting some small, sacrificial unit to
delay revealing your own hand. Rather, movement represents sweeping
mobilizations across a major battlefront, where an entire field army
takes part in a large scale operation or advance. The feel of movement
in Epic 40k is, well, suitably "epic," as you maneuver your entire
force. Unlike in other editions of the game, moving first provides a
good balance of advantages and disadvantages. While you do reveal your
plan of attack in doing so, moving with initiative allows you to seize
vital ground (as enemies cannot come closer than 10cm to your stands)
before the enemy has a chance to do so. It gives you a chance to take
the high ground, dig into the rubble of urban terrain and deploy
area-control in a game that is so much about formation and position. In
the assault phase, initiative gives you an important advantage in lining
up your close combats and driving off the enemy, before they come back
with their inevitable counterattack. If you go second in the assault
phase, you had better hope that you thought ahead and created a "defense
in depth" to counter the enemy's push.</span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span></span><br /><span>The initiative rules are simple and humble, but they provide much of the epic feel and scope of the game.</span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><br /></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span></span></span></span></span><i><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span>Ok,
with the initiative system covered, we can now pick up where we left
off with the combat system. So without further ado, let's take a look at
#6…</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></i><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span> </span><br /><u><span>6: Fate Cards</span></u></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><u><span></span></u></span><span><span><br /><span>Back
in the 1990‘s, every Games Workshop game came with cards. Cards, like
special templates and counters, were a source of good production values
in a game. In conjunction with boxed game sets, they allowed GW to
demonstrate "value added" to their games and products. This wasn't only
aesthetic, however. Cards expanded the experience of play into new
dimensions. Not only did they add a tactile element to gameplay, but
having certain cards in play would have countless ramifications, so that
no two scenarios were ever perfectly alike. Cards allowed you to hide
your strategy, adding to the fog of war, while also constraining your
tactical options to the cards that were drawn. They were a vital but
limited resource, requiring careful planning and timing. They also
allowed strongly thematic and, dare I say, even entertaining and
humorous elements to be injected seamlessly into the game.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span> </span><br /><span>The
main purpose of fate cards in Epic 40k was to reroll an undesirable
close combat roll. Close combats were decided with a single d6, which
made even heavily one-sided fights dangerously unpredictable. On the one
hand, this mechanic made close assaults highly undesirable without
considerable preparation and advantage. Close combat is not something
you engaged in without proper planning and forethought. On the other
hand, it also made fate cards (of which you only received two or three
for the entire game) a critical resource. You had, at most, two or three
close combat fights where you had strong assurance of a victory. When
those critical, turning-point moments in the game were was something you
had to agonizingly decide for yourself. Suppress the enemy with
artillery, pin them in their positions, soften their front lines and
send in your best assault troops under cover of fire, but do not go into
combat without a fate card.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span> </span><br /><span>Of course, you never had
enough fate card for every critical fight. Close combat (I failed to
mention earlier) was the only way to force the enemy to retreat, so it
played a vital role in any attempt to wrest ground from the enemy. You
often have to bank those precious fate cards for other theaters and
other contingencies, meaning close combat often held the thrill and
suspense of a throw of the die. But these are decisions that fate cards
empowered you to have. When do you want to risk it, and when are risks
acceptable or unacceptable. Would a +3 modifier be enough? Perhaps not
if you roll a 1, but anything higher than a 3 would be a sure thing. Is
this the assault that will be the crux of the whole game, or is that
fight still ahead?</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span> </span><br /><span>This is not the only function fate
cards had, however. The secondary (and sometimes only) effect of a fate
card ranged from rallying a suppressed detachment by removing some blast
markers, calling in orbital bombardments on enemy positions or even
zapping a pesky enemy stand with one of your nearby psykers. (The latter
could, of course, be countered by a nearby enemy psyker, leading to
miniature psyker duels in the middle of the battle).</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span> </span><br /><span>While
these cards had some thematic effects, fate cards were massively
expanded by new cards released in GW's magazines, including 8 unique
cards for each faction and a whopping 16 cards for the Imperial armies
(Imperial Guard and Space Marines). These were heavily themed and
faction-specific, creating a unique feel to each species on the
tabletop. Eldar focused on deception and graceful maneuvering, while
Orks hardened their troops and Tyranids infested and consumed the very
earth around them. Chaos channeled the corrupted energy of the four
ruinous powers to transform themselves and their enemies, with the boon
of each power having a different feel on the battlefield. The Orks and
Tyranids (as well as Tzeentch) even had unique psyker effects that
better modeled their alien mindsets.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span> </span><br /><span>The designers used
the Imperial fate card set to showcase 16 themes that embody the 40k
universe in the form of "tarot" cards, a nice reference to the Imperial
cult surrounding the worship of the God-Emperor. There are cards that
play to the weaknesses in the xeno-factions (for example, "The Savage"
tarot card forces a Space Ork detachment to assault, while "The
Harlequin" causes an Eldar unit to despair and lose hope). Other cards
reference different elements of the 40k universe, including "The
Assassin" (which has a chance to kill an enemy stand of your choice) and
the "Fabricator" (which summons the Machine God of Mars' power to
repair a damaged titan). Other thematic cards include The Space Marine,
The Hulk, The Inquisitor and so on.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span> </span><br /><span>Given the scale and
scope of the game, these cards not only add thematic flavour to each
faction, but also serve to inject a strong feel of the 40k setting into
the game. While the game plays out on an epic scale, the fate cards
communicate what fighting over a planet would feel like in the 40k
universe. They also add another strategic resource for a player to
deploy and a unique twist in every battle.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span> <span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span></span><br /><i><span>Moving right along to #5…</span></i><br /><u><span><br />5: TITANS!</span></u></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><u><span></span></u></span><span><span><br /><span>While
earlier editions did have rules for titans and massive war engines,
they never felt fully integrated. SM2 had rules for the Warlord titan in
the boxed set and, several years later, Titan Legions revised and
updated those rules, adding the massive Imperator and Mega Gargant
titans to the game. While titans added a great deal to the game, they
also slowed gameplay down considerably. Even the humble Warlord,
workhorse of the Titan Legions, had six void shields, specific saving
throws for each of the twelve unique hit locations per side (a total of
34 locations) and five different critical damage tables (a total of 19
unique effects). Because of the amount of time to work out titan attacks
and damage, relatively few games were played with more than a couple
titans per side (leaving titan vs titan conflicts for the older, simpler
Adeptus Titanicus rules from the late 1980's). Titan Legions was
definitely an innovative ruleset… It used custom hit location dice, tons
of unique damage tables and an arsenal of weapons and upgrades. It felt
a bit like playing Battletech in the middle of your Epic Space Marine
game. Despite the fun, this was also something of a downside, as the
detail slowed down the game and sometimes felt poorly integrated.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span> </span><br /><span>When
E40k came out, the designers took the chance to rewrite the rules for
titans and bring them mechanically in line with the core game. The rules
also greatly expanded the category of titans to include massive war
engines, such as the Imperial Baneblade super heavy tank or the Space
Ork Gibletgrinder battle fortress, in order to ramp up the battlefield
mayhem of these war machines. All war engines (from the massive
Imperator Titan to the humble Eldar Scorpion super heavy grav-tank) now
had "damage capacity" which determined how many hits they could tank,
once Void shields (if any) were depleted. Just like Battlefleet Gothic,
each damage point has a 1 in 6 chance of causing further effect on a 2d6
critical hit table (unique to each war engine), which disabled weapons,
movement and other systems (which might then be repaired during the
course of the battle). Finally, each war engine had a unique 1d6
catastrophic damage table, resulting in a spectacular display when the
titan was finally brought down on the battlefield.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span> </span><br /><span>War
engines, including titans, follow the normal rules governing units, with
some small modifications. They have their own (very high!) assault
score, as units do, but may be attacked by more than two enemy units in
close combat at a time (up to half their starting damage capacity). This
is crucial for overcoming titans' high assault scores, and it turns
assaults on titans into dramatic conflicts that are the centerpiece of
any battle. If the attacker is able to storm the lower levels of the
titan, the attack rolls from close combat are the best chance at taking
these leviathans down (as they ignore both Void shields and the high
armour scores of titans). Titans may also move and shoot, even in
combat, although they attack in a second shooting phase after normal
unit fire is resolved (representing the time it takes to line up their
cumbersome ordnance). They rumble slowly across the battlefield, taking
ponderous turns and crushing everything underfoot. Although they do not
take orders like units do (and thus cannot march to increase their speed
or overwatch to increase their accuracy), they can move, assault and
fire their weapons at full strength.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span> </span><br /><span>War engines also
have access to a deadly arsenal of "super heavy weapons." These are
weapons that modify the normal firepower-based attack rules, from the
Eldar pulsar weapons to the Imperial vortex missile (which annihilates
everything within the blast radius) and the Space Ork "Super Lifta
Droppa" (which does what it says on the tin). While firepower-based
weaponry remains the core attack system in the game (and indeed, Titans
are often bristling with weapon batteries that use these rules as well),
the super heavy weapons rules add a unique feel and variation to those
rules. They are "epic" scale weapons with truly dramatic effects on the
battlefield, removing swathes of poor bloody infantry and leaving
craters in their wake.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span> </span><br /><span>The rules for war engines and
titans achieve the aim of reprising and amending earlier editions. War
engines still feel very unique on the battlefield, as they should. They
are ponderous, towering leviathans capable of reigning death all across a
massive battlefront. The fight to take down a titan is a suspenseful
and thrilling moment in the battle, and titans exit the conflict as
thunderously and destructively as they entered. Although titans have a
memorable and remarkable effect on the game, the designers were careful
to make sure that titans did not slow down the game at the same time.
While bringing their own unique feel to the game, titans are also fully
integrated in the rules so as to keep Epic 40,000 churning along at full
speed. Given how lightweight and quick Epic 40,000 is, this is a truly
impressive feat. War engines are also well balanced within the rules.
They are very effective and deadly, yet it is also quite possible to
take them down with good strategy. Titans become something like massive,
mobile terrain on the battlefield: a contentious objective that is
fought over tooth and nail, eventually to fall in dramatic fashion.
Although the earlier Titan Legion rules still very much have their
strengths, no edition of the game has quite captured the cinematic
nature of titans as well as Epic 40,000 has.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span> </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><span></span><br /><i><span>Continuing on to #4…</span></i></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><u><span></span><br /><span>4: Campaign Potential and Narrative Feel</span></u></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span> </span></span><span><span><br /><span>Probably
one of the most under-appreciated (or at least little remembered)
strengths of Epic 40k is the potential it has for narrative and
campaign-play. No other edition is set up so well for this, in large
part to the inspiration E40k takes from historical wargames,
particularly older WW2 tabletop games.</span><br /><span>The result is
that E40k feels like the only edition that would be perfect for playing
asymmetrical battles, where one side has a far higher point value than
the other. In fact, this is the exact premise of E40k's most beloved
scenario, Fog of War. In this scenario, each side draws a secret mission
(there are 13 in all, making every play-through unique), with
considerable variation in force size and objectives commensurate to the
forces one receives. Guessing the enemy's intentions, while achieving
your own objectives with the limited resources at your disposal, makes
Fog of War feel more like a game of Kriegspiel than a game tailored for
tournament play.</span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span> </span><br /><span>The other scenarios are similarly
well-designed and interesting. There are six more "generic" battles for
pick-up play, each of which takes a classic mission and gives it a
unique twist. This includes missions like Dawn Attack (where the
attacker launches a surprise assault on a well-fortified and concealed
enemy position while the defender waits desperately for reinforcements)
and Planetary Assault (where the defender deploys over the entire table
surface and the attack arrives in random clusters of drop pods).</span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span> </span><br /><span>These
scenarios are greatly facilitated by the inclusion of special rules to
cover multiple objective tokens (take & hold, rescue, bunker,
capture and cleanse) which can be mixed into a scenario to give it
thematic focus, as well as excellent rules for hidden setup,
fortifications and razorwire, drop pod deployment and air support. The
hidden setup rules are especially good, and allow you to place counters
that represent occupied positions or "dummy" positions (which can even
turn out to be minefields and booby traps). You can use "recon by fire"
tactics to suppress a hidden position, which may end up being a waste if
the counter is a fake. The drop pod rules draw inspiration from classic
WW2 wargaming—you release tiny, numbered pieces of paper onto the table
from 30cm and place units wherever the leaflets flutter to on the
battlefield.</span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span> </span><br /><span>Noticeably, there is little overt concern
for "balance" in all this. Scenarios with fortifications suggest that
the defender can place as many as he please, although the player is
warned that "the more fortifications there are in play the greater the
risk that they will be overrun and occupied by the enemy." Razorwire and
minefields can give an edge to the defender, while drop pods and
reserves can tilt the balance to the attacker. Instead of thinking in
terms of symmetry and balance, players are expected to focus on the
strategic and operational challenges before of them, think of the
resources they have and test their mettle as supreme tacticians on the
battlefield. Operating under adverse conditions is part of the play
experience itself. If a battle does go lopsided, players are encouraged
to swap sides and play the scenario again from the other perspective.</span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span> </span><br /><span>While
the pick up and play battles are interesting and fun, E40k's ability to
tell a story really takes off with the five historical refight
scenarios. These exemplify E40k's strength at campaign and narrative
play, and feature extensive historical backgrounds for each battle
(which span the Warhammer 40k history) and truly unique landscapes and
forces (each of which can be built with the box set). There is a brave
Space Marine strike on a lone Ork Great Gargant, a race to relieve an
overrun Imperial position in open terrain, a Spartan-style defense of a
mountainous pass and the infamous defense of the bridge crossing over
the Sulphur River while being hounded by enemy airpower (with an
alternate set-up for a "Market Garden" type mission). More than simply
add new scenarios, these missions demonstrate what you can do with
detachments, creative scenario-writing, terrain layout, alternative
objectives and so on. While the forces are largely balanced in points,
the spirit of the scenarios seems to suggest "throw your toys on the
table and play whatever scenario you can dream up."</span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span> </span><br /><span>Finally,
later publications added a tremendous amount of campaign potential to
E40k. Battlefleet Gothic, which used the same core mechanics as E40k,
took epic-scale warfare into the stars. Andy Chambers even put out a
great guide for combining the two games, so that a planetary assault
mission in BFG would be followed by a sequence of games in Epic 40k to
determine the final outcome of the operation. Chambers also released
several campaign formats for linked games, as well as campaign
experience for detachments and extensive battle honours for titans in
every faction. They are still some of my favorite rules, as they
effortlessly track the progress and setback of detachments through the
course of a campaign (as it becomes battle-hardened or replaces fallen
veterans with fresh reinforcements).</span><br /><br /><span>Ahh, I forgot
one more interesting part about the potential for scenario play.
Consider this an addendum to #4! The extensive terrain rules really
bring the 40k universe to life like nothing else before. There are no
fewer than 8 different unique worlds (Hive, Agri, Desert, Ice, Forge,
Primaeval, Death and Daemon Worlds) upon which to wage your apocalyptic
conquests and a total of 65 distinct terrains and weather conditions to
represent them (approximately 8 unique types per world). There is even
an extremely easy "plug and play" guide to creating your own random
terrain chart for any other kind of world you can dream up (or more
practically, to fill out with the terrain pieces you actually own). The
terrain for each world is extremely thematic, with quick to learn but
extremely atmospheric special rules.</span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span> </span><br /><span>For example, Death
Worlds turn woods into dangerous terrain for infantry. Under the normal
dangerous terrain rules, every unit must roll 1d6 and on a 1 they are
halted (perhaps by thick vegetation) and must roll again. On a second 1,
the unit takes a hit (and is swallowed up by man-eating trees or some
other horror). As another example, the area immediately surrounding a
Forge World furnace is also difficult terrain for infantry, as the
intense heat and bursts of sulfurous flames drive back the ground
troops. But that is not all: sandstorms add blast markers as they twist
about the battlefield, lava flow tunnels form natural fortifications for
desperate close-quarters fighting, icebergs form floating landscapes
that change the table every turn and agri-colonies are held by
frightened frontiersmen and their families who take pot shots at passing
units. There are even recommendations for many more terrain types,
including crashed spaceships, generators that release random electrical
discharges and more.</span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span> <span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><br /><i><span>Alright, we've narrowed it down to the top three! For #3, we'll be looking at…</span></i><br /><span> </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<u><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span>3: Firepower and Blast Markers</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></u></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span> </span></span><span><span><br /><span>Probably
the most well known aspect of E40k are the firepower and blast marker
rules, which were also used in Battlefleet Gothic and even inspired some
of the rules in EA. For those not familiar with BFG, the firepower
system is an extremely elegant way to build all the usual to-hit factors
seamlessly into the background of the rules, allowing you to make fewer
rolls to determine shooting. In E40k, this process works by first
counting up the firepower of the stands in range of the target (for most
stands, this means 1 or 2 firepower a piece). Then you cross check your
total firepower (say 17) with the target type (say vehicle or infantry
detachment in the open) on the firepower table and find the number of
dice to roll (in this case 9). There are different columns if your
target is marching, in the open or in cover, as well as if they are
regular ground units (vehicles or infantry), war engines or immobilised
war engines (the columns overlap, however, so that there are only 3
columns, despite all of these factors). You then roll the dice and if
any beat the enemy's armour, you cause a hit (the heaviest tanks are
only hit on a 6+, while the lowliest infantry are hit on a 3+).</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span> </span><br /><span>There
are a number of reasons that this system works so well. Firstly, it is
extremely fast and cuts the usual three rolls (roll to hit, roll to
wound, roll to save) down to one. Secondly, it means there are basically
no modifiers to remember, as they are all worked into the table for you
(infantry do get +1 armour in cover, however, in addition to the column
shift on the firepower table). Thirdly, it instantly resolves that old
question "can the regiment see?" (If individual stands cannot draw line
of sight, they do not add their firepower to the attack). Fourthly, it
effortlessly handles split-fire (you can divide up the firepower to
attack multiple enemy detachments as you please). </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span> </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span>Finally, it makes
formation extremely important: "hits" must be applied to the closest
enemy stand that they could affect first. This means you can hide your
valuable support weapons behind lines of infantry, just as you can
advance your infantry behind their empty transport vehicles for cover.
If the enemy swoops around your flank, then they have more choice about
who to pick off with their attack.</span><br /><span>But the most beloved
aspect of the firepower rules is how it interacts with blast markers.
Hits do not cause blast markers, as they would in other games (like EA
or even BFG). Rather, before an attack is rolled, the total firepower of
the attack determines how many blast markers are added to the target
(for example, our 17 firepower attack above would fall in the 16-23
range that causes two blast markers). Blast markers do not necessarily
represent casualties, but rather suppression, so it matters little how
"accurate" the attack turns out to be. Blast markers pile up slowly but
surely, keeping a detachment from moving (if they fail a leadership
test, which involves rolling 1d6 higher than the number of blast markers
on the detachment) and reducing their firepower totals by the number of
blast markers. In the above example, if our unit had 3 blast markers,
they could only move on a 4+ and would have -3 firepower (17 would be
modified to 14, but if they split their firepower to attack one enemy
with 11 and another with 6, this would become 8 and 3, because of the
difficulty of coordinating multiple fire programs while under
suppression). Detachments lose 0-5 (1d6-1) blast markers each rally
phase, meaning about 2.5 blast markers on average, so heavy suppression
can keep most detachments fully pinned while you maneuver to launch your
assault.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span> </span><br /><span>Firepower is an excellent system for resolving
epic-scale ranged warfare. It is quick, easy, flexible, elegant and
effective. While other games also used blast markers, none felt quite so
well-designed and integrated as in Epic 40k (although BFG comes very
close by treating blast markers as space debris). Both are lightweight,
yet surprisingly powerful game mechanics that are central to the feel
and experience of Epic 40k gaming.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span> <span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span></span><br /><i><span>The
second best thing about Epic 40k, in my opinion, is the thing that is
perhaps the most beloved to E40k fans generally. Most E40k players will
tell you they were sold on the game when they first learned about this,
and it remains one of the endur</span></i></span><span><span><i><span>ingly unique features of this edition. Of course, I am referring to…</span></i></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><i><span> </span></i><br /><u><span>2: Detachment Flexibility</span></u></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span> </span><br /><span>Like
previous editions of Epic, the basic maneuver element of the game is
the detachment. Other editions each had a twist on the idea of the
detachment: in SM1 you could build detachments of any size, in SM2 you
could have a tremendous variety of detachment types, in EA you could
append small supporting units to detachments. But in each case,
detachments were largely fixed and defined. The core of a detachment was
always a single type, whether infantry, tanks, walkers or otherwise.</span><br /><span>As
mentioned earlier, Epic 40k introduced the idea that a detachment
represented an entire army of Warhammer 40k models, just as a single
combat represented an entire battle in Warhammer 40k. Yet, Epic
detachments were always fairly homogenous. Warhammer 40k armies, on the
other hand, were anything but. A typical Dark Angel Space Marine army in
Warhammer 40k could have a tactical squad, some devastators, a couple
of assault marine teams, a dreadnought, a few Ravenwing bikers, a
landspeeder and a razorback. Or it might have some scouts or some
Deathwing terminators in a land raider. Epic had never been this
flexible.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span> </span><br /><span>Not so in E40k. In E40k, you can build a
detachment any way you please. The detachment type (Space Marine Armour
Detachment, Imperial Guard Infantry Detachment) frame your options in
extremely general ways and you are let loose to make any formation you
can imagine. In fact, there was a recommendation (either in the
rulebooks or perhaps a White Dwarf article) to model your first
detachment on your Warhammer 40k army, which you could do perfectly
piece for piece (the visual effect of this in the article was stunning).</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span> </span><br /><span>Why
does this little rule matter so much? There are several major
advantages. Firstly, you could play with all your toys. There were no
more "left over" stands that couldn't fit into an official formation—odd
units that were left out and doomed to collect dust on your shelf.
Secondly, you no longer had a fixed number of 11 or 12 detachment cards
to work off of—there were infinite possible combinations of detachments,
ranging from the smallest formation to massive detachments that rolled
across the battlefield. If something didn't work out last battle, go
back to the drawing board and tweak or even throw out entire detachment
designs and try something radically new. Flexible detachments made the
experience of playing your faction virtually inexhaustible. Thirdly, the
elegance of the game rules meant that mixing different unit types was
completely painless and didn't slow down game play at all. After all,
other editions of Epic could be house ruled to have flexible detachment
construction, but this would quickly drag the game to a standstill while
each individual attack and special rule was worked out. Of course,
other editions of Epic, some say, have "more detail" in the individual
unit stats, so they are happier to play slower or more rigid games. Epic
40k units, they say, are too "plain and vanilla" (please read #8 as to
why I think they are not).</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span> </span><br /><span>But this is exactly what E40k
fans got and what latter-day critics did not. Something incredibly
subtle and yet also incredibly revolutionary. While units got all the
special rules and individualized stats in other editions of Epic, which
gave them a deep sense of theme and atmosphere, the unique feel in E40k
goes to… detachments. And detachments, in E40k, are something YOU, the
player, designs. Detachments, not units, are what hold all the juicy,
rich setting details and unique characteristics. Thedetachment is where
the Deathwing terminators are crashing down in drop pods, assault
marines are backing up predators, landspeeders are swooping in behind
scouts, assault bikes are roaring alongside land raiders. And
detachments are far, far more than the sum of their parts. They are the
infinite and clever combos that you, the player, invents. It is how the
units of the detachment work together that gives the thematic feel to
the game, not individual stands in a vacuum, and you are the one that is
designing that feel. While a special rule to represent some unit in any
other edition of Epic is neat, there is nothing to compare to the
thrill of telling your own story on the tabletop with your army. And
then, you can always write a new story and dream up a new army, all
using the same miniatures (and not leaving any to collect dust on the
shelf).</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span> </span><br /><span>You could still make a detachment of War Walkers
or Night Spinners! Page 13 of the Armies Book gives advice for this.
After about a half page of mulling over the possibilities, they
basically say "be sure to talk it over with your opponent." To me, the
War Walkers sound fine (although they are not usually that common, you
certainly could build a scenario to explain why there was a War Walker
detachment). I might be a little concerned about the Night Spinners…
Those things are downright scary, even as limited support choices!
Nevertheless, the possibilities are pretty limitless. Inventing a
scenario with your opponent, I believe, is THE premier way to play Epic
40,000. It is such a scenario game at heart.</span></span></span></span></span> </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span> <span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><br /><i><span>Finally, the number one reason that I love Warhammer Epic 40,000…</span></i><br /><span> </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<u><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span>1: Scope and Scale</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></u></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span> </span></span><span><span><br /><span>This
was basically present in every other point, yet it is so difficult to
quantify. Epic 40,000 just feels, well… truly epic. It is not a game of
battle. It is a game of planetary conquest. You feel like a high
commander, marshalling your forces along an entire strategic front. Your
primary concerns are not about the individual weapons of your troops,
but rather about much grander resources… Army morale is steadily
slipping away, do you have enough time to achieve your objectives? Will
your reserves arrive on time to make a difference? Do you push ahead
quickly in the face of hidden enemy forces, or do you advance more
cautiously? Does a detachment have enough firepower to challenge an
enemy position, or do they have to wait for support? The player's view
in Epic 40,000 is zoomed out to see this bigger picture. While other
editions give you plenty of detail, they do not give you a compelling
reason to play Epic over other detailed games, like Warhammer 40k for
example. Epic 40k does, as it is a completely different play experience.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span> </span><br /><span>I
could wax poetic about this one point… It is truly the thing I love
most about Epic 40k, but instead I will conclude briefly and allow the
conversation to open up. In particular, there are many more honourable
mentions that did not make this list. The air support rules, for
example, are wonderful and fit the game perfectly. They are both fast
and thematic, with excellent rules for dogfights, attack runs,
interceptions and troop landings. Epic 40k also saw some of the most
beautiful GW miniatures ever produced, from the insanely detailed
vehicles to the largest variety of plastic troop types ever made.</span><br /><span>But
most of all, I hope this list starts to set the record straight. A lot
of memory surrounding Epic 40k, in some corners of the 'net at least, is
strangely negative (something Paul Ricoeur called an "excess of memory"
and an "excess of forgetting"). In short, memory is not a perfect
representation of the past… It is something we use to justify our
choices in the present. Sadly, in order to praise a game we enjoy now,
many of us feel the need to crap on older editions of that game. While
no edition of Epic is perfect (or any other game for that matter), we
tend to misrepresent the past most strongly in the case of the Epic 40k
3rd edition.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span> </span><br /><span>While it is true Epic 40k did not receive
much overt support after the first year, this actually had much less to
do with sales and much more to do with Games Workshop's (then) new
policy for supporting non-core games for only a year or two (see, for
instance, Warhammer Quest, GorkaMorka, Necromunda, Warmaster,
Battlefleet Gothic and even Mordheim). While Epic 40k rustled some
feathers for older players used to earlier editions, the new players it
drew in were devoted and enthusiastic, as evidenced by the strong
convention presence and countless fan sites devoted to the game in the
earliest days of the internet (many of which can still be found in
archived form). The Epic 40k community is much smaller now, but no less
passionate and devoted. One only has to look around to see their
accolades for the game.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span> </span><br /><span>In the end, different games fit
different personalities and play styles, and no game will work for
everyone. Yet, for that very reason, you should ask yourself (as we
have): Could Epic 40k be "your" Epic?</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><br /></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhihNX0X0MyJ45RiP2Vy65VjktC_chRvJmJlukAlO4cX8NoLAsjlrIaOtVLUT_LM8GcrmcoK7U2tax9RxcH555_Jt6hvFmM9NNKsFrbnTQxxZGf-B76TUwpGOvcbHcwO5NsXeHudhvcfoY/s876/pic1882454.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="876" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhihNX0X0MyJ45RiP2Vy65VjktC_chRvJmJlukAlO4cX8NoLAsjlrIaOtVLUT_LM8GcrmcoK7U2tax9RxcH555_Jt6hvFmM9NNKsFrbnTQxxZGf-B76TUwpGOvcbHcwO5NsXeHudhvcfoY/s320/pic1882454.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span></span></span></span></span></span> <br /></span></span></span></span></span> </span></span></span></span></span><span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span dir="ltr"><span class="_3l3x _1n4g"><span><span><span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
</div>
Rexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17650208351837081612noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2407582606521317826.post-75115335243122525482020-04-20T18:14:00.002+01:002022-08-01T18:20:10.634+01:00Inq6 WiP. Slaanesh Escher Cultists<div class="" dir="auto"><div class="ecm0bbzt hv4rvrfc ihqw7lf3 dati1w0a" data-ad-comet-preview="message" data-ad-preview="message" id="jsc_c_17l"><div class="j83agx80 cbu4d94t ew0dbk1b irj2b8pg"><div class="qzhwtbm6 knvmm38d"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql lr9zc1uh a8c37x1j fe6kdd0r mau55g9w c8b282yb keod5gw0 nxhoafnm aigsh9s9 d3f4x2em iv3no6db jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v b1v8xokw oo9gr5id hzawbc8m" dir="auto"><div class="kvgmc6g5 cxmmr5t8 oygrvhab hcukyx3x c1et5uql ii04i59q"><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;">Sneak peek wip of my small scale <span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql lr9zc1uh a8c37x1j fe6kdd0r mau55g9w c8b282yb keod5gw0 nxhoafnm aigsh9s9 d3f4x2em iv3no6db jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v b1v8xokw oo9gr5id hzawbc8m" dir="auto">Inq6/</span>micromunda project. Slaanesh Escher Cultists.<br /></div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"> </div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;">Got tons more currently on the workbench, I'm really enjoying the use of the brighter punk colours!</div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"> </div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxoLeRnUAsEsPoD_Mt7fZFE_upGy40d5jB1z1D6jcmWJ40ZxQR_zryHSlJ1AYM53MKxo3ikjNLktYyoFMXJhAAS5tIJoX7zQYyt031O_Ke4Kt-T7khnNbg9QdLTe10WXzMUtkkAEc5pl_ctB9dyee8AFPdqs1OnanMQIZc0tFKQ_GHzeSPjuqyj1Y9/s960/92701504_2590337087952388_5593163050032037888_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="960" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxoLeRnUAsEsPoD_Mt7fZFE_upGy40d5jB1z1D6jcmWJ40ZxQR_zryHSlJ1AYM53MKxo3ikjNLktYyoFMXJhAAS5tIJoX7zQYyt031O_Ke4Kt-T7khnNbg9QdLTe10WXzMUtkkAEc5pl_ctB9dyee8AFPdqs1OnanMQIZc0tFKQ_GHzeSPjuqyj1Y9/w640-h640/92701504_2590337087952388_5593163050032037888_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Slaanesh Escher Cultists: Noise Marine (<a href="https://www.onslaughtmini.com/hellborn/126-hellborn-fallen-sister-discordia-squad.html" target="_blank">Onslaught Minis</a>), Escher Champion (<a href="https://vanguardminiatures.co.uk/shop/novan-convent-specialists/" target="_blank">Vanguard Minis</a>) <br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /> </div></div></span></div></div></div></div><p> </p>Rexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17650208351837081612noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2407582606521317826.post-26580022579592801432020-04-17T18:07:00.001+01:002022-08-01T18:13:42.146+01:00Inq6/Micromunda Project Update. Beastman Bounty Hunter & more. <div class="" dir="auto"><div class="ecm0bbzt hv4rvrfc ihqw7lf3 dati1w0a" data-ad-comet-preview="message" data-ad-preview="message" id="jsc_c_176"><div class="j83agx80 cbu4d94t ew0dbk1b irj2b8pg"><div class="qzhwtbm6 knvmm38d"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql lr9zc1uh a8c37x1j fe6kdd0r mau55g9w c8b282yb keod5gw0 nxhoafnm aigsh9s9 d3f4x2em iv3no6db jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v b1v8xokw oo9gr5id hzawbc8m" dir="auto"><div class="kvgmc6g5 cxmmr5t8 oygrvhab hcukyx3x c1et5uql ii04i59q"><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;">Some of my recent work for my skirmish figures for my Inq6 (or micromunda!) project. Still some basing to do, but I left it for now as might do something different for the robed chaps. <br /><br /></div></div><div class="cxmmr5t8 oygrvhab hcukyx3x c1et5uql o9v6fnle ii04i59q"><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;">Beastman bounty hunter 'Cow' Jerico, Redemptionist flamer and Ad Mech servitor.</div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"> </div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEPZcpr4tL5dbJohCOxCDSQ2pQDnAvyDkCdKaqQVRWZWSTIOtRY1qYPgxvD7gEGLlPeYt34DA12uu0aE23EjyIf0-rxf0rIKefrx8kcxEa5KBwyVl6GizO__8-Kw-m0AK9YYJ-hhk8D_xwz4oNB_lzezyYfNPo5YubVRIJAxdKf3K96UXYdyYPn6aO/s1564/94072230_2593712794281484_1537028641865596928_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1564" data-original-width="1564" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEPZcpr4tL5dbJohCOxCDSQ2pQDnAvyDkCdKaqQVRWZWSTIOtRY1qYPgxvD7gEGLlPeYt34DA12uu0aE23EjyIf0-rxf0rIKefrx8kcxEa5KBwyVl6GizO__8-Kw-m0AK9YYJ-hhk8D_xwz4oNB_lzezyYfNPo5YubVRIJAxdKf3K96UXYdyYPn6aO/w640-h640/94072230_2593712794281484_1537028641865596928_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql lr9zc1uh a8c37x1j fe6kdd0r mau55g9w c8b282yb keod5gw0 nxhoafnm aigsh9s9 d3f4x2em iv3no6db jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v b1v8xokw oo9gr5id hzawbc8m" dir="auto">Beastman bounty hunter 'Cow' Jerico (GW Plastic), Redemptionist flamer (<a href="https://www.onslaughtmini.com/hellborn/122-hellborn-cult-destroyers.html" target="_blank">Onslaught Minis</a>) and Ad Mech servitor (<a href="https://www.pfc-cinc.com/solar_empire_marines.html" target="_blank">CinC Minis</a>) <br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /> </div></div></span></div></div></div></div><p> </p>Rexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17650208351837081612noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2407582606521317826.post-38743683956011522242020-02-29T13:34:00.001+00:002020-02-29T13:34:13.107+00:006mm Fantasy Coffee Table Modular Gaming TableI started putting together a modular gaming board for small fantasy games over the Christmas period. I got a bit sidetracked (with a very special project) and even forgot to update the blog with the WIP. I will get back to this soon, I just need to clear a lot of other part finished projects first before I make the rest of the tiles, as I need the room! <br />
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<span id="goog_1704487931"></span><span id="goog_1704487932"></span><br />Rexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17650208351837081612noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2407582606521317826.post-10942861132454815232019-04-09T20:06:00.001+01:002019-04-09T20:06:12.166+01:00Epic 40k: Foam core trenches and scratch built bunkersI wanted to have a go at building some scratch built terrain in a similar style to the old GW studio terrain from the Epic space marine era.<br /><br />Had a crack at the trench walls from the 2nd Ed expansion book: White Dwarf presents Space Marine Battles. The bunker was made from some plastic sweet pots I'd been saving up. I made a humongous pot of texture paint for terrain, so I can make a ton more similar items in the future. <br /><br />It was a bit unusual for me to add grass, so I'm not totally happy with the 'random' patterns I went for, I've gotten far to use to painting urban basing and mud, a fault of paying too much attention to the modern hobby style. But I'm pretty pleased with the shade of bright green grass I've been able to mix. I tried to go for as close to the bright tone of the studio green of the early 90s, but with out looking too neon against my more modern style basing. I think mixing in the darker green turf flock took just enough of the neon glow off! <br /><br />The bunker could have done with having more details added, especially the door. I've done some really detailed doors on some unpainted ork buildings I've been making but I just couldn't find anything to do with these to make them more interesting with out over complicating them. I might go back and add some hazard stripes to them, as they could still do with a touch more colour. <br /><br />The ork terrain was an older piece, a mekboy workshop. I gave the paint job a bit of a spruce up and added a couple of additional details.<br /><span id="goog_1916870819"></span><br />
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I'm now waiting on a ton of new miniatures and terrain parts to be delivered, then I have some serious projects to be be getting stuck into! </div>
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Rexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17650208351837081612noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2407582606521317826.post-90214968303103442182019-03-30T19:49:00.003+00:002019-03-30T19:49:33.971+00:00Epic 40k: Trenches I found a miniatures case I packed up when I moved 4 years ago and had forgotten to unpack it! Inside was a bunch of (Old) Epic ork stuff, a few odd bits of 6mm fantasy terrain and a bunch of half finished trenches, from the old Battlescene design range. Finished painting them up, but I might go back and add some more details to the walls once I've fished out the other box of these I have.<br /><span id="goog_359836027"></span><span id="goog_359836028"></span> <br />
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<br />Rexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17650208351837081612noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2407582606521317826.post-52434807991866636252019-03-24T01:56:00.001+00:002019-03-24T01:56:15.401+00:00Epic 40k Painting Guide: 30k HH Emperor's Children <span style="font-size: small;">This guide shows how I paint my loyalist Emperor's children for Epic 30k. I'm using Novan Elites from Vanguard miniatures as stand ins for space marines in this force. They are splendid figures and paint up really quick. They are nicely cast and the scale really suits the lore of space marines. (Models are around 7mm-7.5mm tall) <br /><br />This 'Battle ready' paint scheme isn't the most detailed paint scheme, but its extremely fast to paint and the bold colours are striking on the gaming table. </span><br />
<ul>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>I've skipped over the 'starter steps' of
painting. This guide presumes you have painted before. If
requested, I can go over beginner steps in future guides</i>. </span></span></li>
</ul>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: small;">On to the painting Table: <br /><br />1: Once the miniatures are cleaned up (vanguard minis have very minimal flash and mould lines. The shoulder pads on the novan elites are usually the only part that need attention) the models are sprayed with black undercoat. I use halfords matt black, as though I do like the citadel sprays for smaller scales (due to the fine spray they achieve) I'm spraying a large batch of epic minis and halfords spray is far better value and gives great coverage. <br /></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">2: Once that is dry, the whole model is given a wetbrush of Vallejos model colour flat brown.<br /></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"> <br /><span id="goog_118000884"></span><span id="goog_118000885"></span></span><br /><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>I stick with vallejo colours for these next couple of steps.
I've tried this scheme using citadels purples and pinks and they just
don't have the vibrancy I want to see at this scale. Vallejo model
colour is a little thicker too, which helps with the drybrushing. YMMV
of course! <br /><br /></i>3: Once that has dried, the whole model is given a wetbrush of Vallejo model colour Royal Purple. A second, much lighter drybrush of royal purple is done once the first is dry. This is just to catch any areas that are missed and to give a little more colour to the focal areas- the head & the shoulder pads. <br />You can skip the second drybrush if you caught everything during the first pass. <br /></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipYVH6Kag-PzRLgVj3ICKjM2GYUmXujdrNvp48fvfJfq601cbn-w0wGK-zOMlZReaL4U-XSe6UtIjr0rKfeuXewL1vj8bGJG1iR2JvMsN96SO2OqTrQABOWSXDmJXpfy2jb2bk5laIDMI/s1600/ec+003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1432" data-original-width="1088" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipYVH6Kag-PzRLgVj3ICKjM2GYUmXujdrNvp48fvfJfq601cbn-w0wGK-zOMlZReaL4U-XSe6UtIjr0rKfeuXewL1vj8bGJG1iR2JvMsN96SO2OqTrQABOWSXDmJXpfy2jb2bk5laIDMI/s400/ec+003.jpg" width="303" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br />4: Once the purple is dry, the whole model is given a drybrush of Vallejo model colour magenta. You want to go easy with this colour. You do want the colour to build up all over the raised areas, but you don't want to turn the flat areas bright pink. It's always better to do two (or even three!) passes of dry brushing. You want to mostly catch raised areas, but you do want an even pass over the flat areas like the leg plates and shoulder pads. You want it to only look neon pink in photos or an inch away from your eye. A foot away, the purple should remain the most defining colour! I will often test the strength of the colour on the gun or base before I hit the whole miniature, as these areas will be covered up later anyway. <br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj01m7QmkYwMzH8Y5wj43eto1r8oSOYefQ2cX_aIbqEoAG7uNfO6IPaMz9azVE9QQCz5k4z5xGtOGc7iMk2mlI7VQO_posaqgjhY8aGz5XzixmPfElOYu7hH93cm7pATCNLjug7XRGjna4/s1600/ec+004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1576" data-original-width="1152" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj01m7QmkYwMzH8Y5wj43eto1r8oSOYefQ2cX_aIbqEoAG7uNfO6IPaMz9azVE9QQCz5k4z5xGtOGc7iMk2mlI7VQO_posaqgjhY8aGz5XzixmPfElOYu7hH93cm7pATCNLjug7XRGjna4/s400/ec+004.jpg" width="291" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It really doesn't look so neon pink to the naked eye, I promise!</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><i> </i>5: The whole miniature is now given a purple wash. I'm using citadels purple wash for this, as it works great with out needing to thin it down. Don't flood the model, but you want a decent coating as the wash will tone down the insane pink glow! Once it is dry, you will have a nice gradient of dark to light (though sadly, is now toned down enough to no longer be useful as a night light!) <br /></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"> 6: The model is given the lightest drybrush of magenta again. When I do this step, the brush is pretty much bone dry, so much so it's almost clean. You just want to catch the very tips of the edges of his helmet, the knee pads- any of the absolutely sharpest corners of focal points. When you think your brush is dry enough to do this step, it's still not! Wipe it off some more! If even a hint of too much paint is on there, it will completely undo the work the wash did and having to rewash the model will destroy the lovely vibrant gradient of purples! It would be better to skip this step then over do it! I find that this step is worth it though, as it just gives enough of a highlight to those sharp points to give some more definition to the model on the table top. <br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNIp2ZnY-j_ua2reZJOJvCi3kcDQwiaTfTGLVXABFXE5AShu9fuSx1uZhKXivu_a7nvtNpzGhKp7gGrsF7RPEiKhL9PAfUt8VBGqxZ-Qi8nyVj9Kg9r0b-Y9ggNIQ2VmztI72hJIj_KR4/s1600/ec+006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="1096" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNIp2ZnY-j_ua2reZJOJvCi3kcDQwiaTfTGLVXABFXE5AShu9fuSx1uZhKXivu_a7nvtNpzGhKp7gGrsF7RPEiKhL9PAfUt8VBGqxZ-Qi8nyVj9Kg9r0b-Y9ggNIQ2VmztI72hJIj_KR4/s400/ec+006.jpg" width="285" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"<span class="st">When you <em>drybrush</em> things right, people won't be sure you've <em>drybrushed </em>anything at <em>all" - God, possibly. </em></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;">7: For the right shoulder pad, I paint it with vallejo model colour pale greyblue. I find that this colour gives just the right impression of white, especially with 6mm scale models. I find that using a pure white, and even vallejos off white, can be far to stark and will look awful, especially when painting such a vibrant scheme. The pale grey blue also paints over these more vibrant colours a lot better then pure white can. You can then also highlight with pure white, though I don't tend to do so at this scale, unless I'm doing chequers and want to define the shape a bit more. <br /><br />Be steady with the shoulder pads- always paint away from main focal points of the models, like the face. instead, paint from the inside out or towards the back. If you make a mistake and catch this colour on part of the mini, it can be pretty annoying to try and fix. Painting the purple over the error will be pretty noticeable with the gradients now. I tend to aim for the backpack if I need too, as that can be repainted and won't be so noticeable. <br /><br />Always paint in thin layers, two or three coats is always better then one. Whites can go on chalky and look horrid if painted too thickly, even the off whites. You can of course paint the shoulder pad grey first, then an off white, but with the pale grey blue I find you dont need too.<br /><br /> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDK3_wwNDSp1LwWMO351btF0f36Mv9z-hSSaJoKsoyp1XogINKiQs6nQcfPgdnzmTrIwYpmNewaAUw_COAiz_Q3vMHFUkcIZ9tOLp0M8YY2JMGvqIeEnOXpvdG2MCWD7jy7yI7ysNhGrA/s1600/ec+007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1520" data-original-width="1104" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDK3_wwNDSp1LwWMO351btF0f36Mv9z-hSSaJoKsoyp1XogINKiQs6nQcfPgdnzmTrIwYpmNewaAUw_COAiz_Q3vMHFUkcIZ9tOLp0M8YY2JMGvqIeEnOXpvdG2MCWD7jy7yI7ysNhGrA/s400/ec+007.jpg" width="290" /></a></div>
<span id="goog_118000904"></span><span id="goog_118000905"></span><br />8: I paint the bolter in a gunmetal- I'm using citadels Leadbelcher as it covers in one coat. Be mindful of the hands (for every 10 of these I paint, at least one I paint the left hand instead of the bolter clip!) and it's better to stay a bit away from the chest then to mess up the purples- the next wash will take care of that area anyway, so no need to go all the way back with the gunmetal. <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />9: Give the bolter a black wash. Don't need to go mad, just enough wash to break up the panel lines and define the bolter from the armour. I'm using citadels Nuln oil. (Mostly because I have 400 pots of the stuff I brought in bulk!) <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />10: This is one of the very few times I will break out the #00 brush. Using Citadels retributor armour gold paint, I paint on the edging on the left shoulder pad. Their is no design details on novan shoulder pads, so this is all done free hand. I always put way, way more gold on to my palette then I am going to need for one unit, this is so you can thin it ever so slightly with water, but you want to keep it as close to from the pot as you can. The more you have out, the slower it will dry out and you need to keep the paint as flowing as you can with out it become too liquid- otherwise the paint will just run across the flat areas. You have to sort of guess-timate where the edging would go sometimes, as the some of the marines are slightly turned and the shoulder pads kind of sits underneath the backpack vent. <br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span id="goog_118000918"></span><span id="goog_118000919"></span></span><br />11: Edge Highlight the bolter, catching all the doodads and yokes on the body, as well as the barrel and the clip. I use citadels Ironbreaker, which is a mid silver. I prefer to use mithril, but as it's discontinued now, I'm saving my last half pot to finish off some fantasy projects I was already using it on. <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />12: I spend a bit of time cleaning up the basing circle the miniatures stand on by going over it all with some black. If you base in the classic glue-sand-paint, then there is probably no need to do this step. But I use my own home made basing texture paints, and the purple does tend to show through, as I use a very light grey for my urban basing scheme. But now they are ready for a matt coat and basing! Just another 200 or so shoulder pads to go! <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br /><br />There are tons of optional extras you can do with these miniatures. You could paint the backpacks, there is room on the shoulder pads for squad markings, there is a spot of room on the chest for the impression of the Aquila if your freehand is up to it, the helmet has enough details that you could break the purple up a bit more. But for me, I'm trying to move the lead mountain down to more sizeable pile, mostly as an excuse to order a ton more stuff! I may revisit these sometime in the future and add squad markings. <br /><span id="goog_118000934"></span><span id="goog_118000935"></span><br />Rexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17650208351837081612noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2407582606521317826.post-77798214997518322632019-03-22T00:00:00.001+00:002019-03-22T00:00:53.073+00:006mm Fantasy Painting Guide: Microworld Dwarf Berserkers<i>This guide shows an extremely fast way of painting up 'battle ready' 6mm dwarves. A couple of points before we begin: </i><br />
<ul>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Close up photography isn't 6mm's best friend. The finished miniature won't look as rough to the naked eye, I promise! </span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">There are much, much better 6mm scale painters out there than myself. They do produce miniatures that look great on camera! </span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">I've skipped over the 'starter steps' of painting. This guide presumes you will have painted before. If requested, I can go over beginner steps in future guides. </span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">6mm is about mass units and not the individual figure. I've only painted one dwarf for the photographs. This is because it makes for better photographs then having to look at a mass of figures on my well used painting sticks. When painting your own units, paint a unit or more at a time, espcailly with these berserkers. Painting time for each dwarf berserker is probably less then 3 minutes, not including drying time.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">I've used black for the clothing here. I'd normally recommend brighter colours for clothing in 6mm, the rest of this unit is in blue clothes. I've gone for black/grey trousers as a way of breaking up the blue in the unit. The entire unit all dressed in blue look a bit off, so I wanted to break the colours up with a few alternative colours. Sadly, the reds and greens I tried all over powered the bright blue the rest were done in. </span></li>
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On to the painting table: <br />
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<li>Once the miniatures have been cleaned up and the minimal flash has been removed, spray undercoat them. For dwarf Berserkers, its extremely quick to paint them over a white undercoat. I used Games Workshops 'corax white' spray. I do like their white spray over my usual Halfords sprays, they have a much finer spray/nozzle which stops the small details being obscured and they dry a lot faster. (<i>* Remove all the bits of static grass you accidentally blow all over it, when you were working on something else and forgot the dwarf was directly behind your other project!</i>) <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<li> Wash all the skin areas with a flesh wash. I use Games Workshops Fleshshade for this. Don't drown the miniature in wash, you want a nice even coat over all the skin, allowing it to collect in the deeper sections of the muscles, eyes and waistband. You want enough for the wash to tint all the white areas of skin, but thin enough that the white will still show through, giving you instant highlights.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<li> The Skin areas get the lightest of drybrushes of a mid tone or light flesh colour. I used Citadels 'Cadian Flesh' for this. A really, really light drybrushing. My brush is almost bone dry when doing this step. You are not trying to add any colour to the mini, this light drybrush just evens out the colour and catches the very upper parts or where the wash has dried to heavy. If you wanted, you could go one tone lighter with the skin with this step. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<li> The axe heads get two thin coats of a cold grey. I used Vallejo London Grey for this. You could use a metallic colour for this step, but I like the contrast of grey weapons at this scale. It also stops my armies blending into a puddle of silver on the battlefields. At this scale, it's very easy for an army to become a sea of silver. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<li> The axe heads get a thin, even coat of black wash over them. As I wanted some grey trousers to break up the blue, the trousers here get two coats of black wash, allowing plenty of time to dry between coats. When painting the rest of the unit, I use a medium blue from vallejo and I water it down ever so slightly more than usual, so it only glazes the higher parts of the legs, like with the skin, and they get instant highlights. You could give the clothing a light drybrush of a dark grey for the black or light blue for the medium blue clothes, I chose to skip this step though as their clothing doens't need to stand out as much as there other defining features. <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<li>The axe hafts are painted in Citadels 'snakebite leather' and the base is given a couple of coats of vallejos 'flat brown' (This is so no white ends up poking through the basing later on, you can skip this step, but I like to do it as I find white is pretty noticeable if the basing ever chips or cracks) The hafts are then given a small brown wash. If you want to save even more time, you can skip these parts completely, as they are only really noticeable up close or on some of the other poses. <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<li> This next step brings the model to life! It's time to paint the most important part of a dwarf, his beard! These dwarves are being used for my warhammer fantasy project, so I'm going for the classic orange beard of the dwarf slayer! I used citadels aptly named 'Troll slayer orange'. The advantage of this colour, is that Games Workshops layer paints are very transparent, and their oranges especially so. Thinning it down with just a touch of water and over the white undercoat once again gives instant highlights. Being the defining feature of the dwarf, you want this part of the model to really stand out. If you wanted to spend more time on them, you could give these areas a wash and another highlight. I stick with the nice bold orange as it is. <br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<li>The axes are looking pretty dull after the black wash. I have a super thin, cheap synthetic brush that I use for drybrushing these sort of small areas on 6mm miniatures. Like with the skin, you want an almost bone dry drybrush. I used Vallejo 'pale grey blue' and I drybrush all the whole axe head, concentrating on the edges, but making sure to catch part of the flat areas of the axe head as well. If I was spending more time on them, I would probably drybrush the London grey again and then do an even lighter coat of the lighter grey, but with these dwarves, the weapon heads are so small, it's almost a wasted step, as you will not see the gradual colour change on the tabletop. The drybrushing does look a little bit fierce in the photo, but I promise that is a fault with the camera. To the naked eye it is not that extreme looking and from two foot away on the tabletop it's more then fine! <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />Your dwarf berserkers are now complete! Painting in batches of whole units means that once you complete one step on each model, by the time you get to the last one, the first will be dry and ready for the next step! These are probably the fastest models to paint I have in this army. Once I had settled on the scheme, I was able to knock each step out in a matter of seconds. A whole unit probably took me 30 minutes, including drying times (which includes time being distracted by the new Doctor Who bluray boxset playing in the background!) I only wish the rest of the army was as easy and quick to paint as these were! <br /><br />One of the most important steps with this scale is the basing. Getting a good base on the a unit of 6mm figures is important and will really set the figures off. I'll cover the basing of this unit in a later post, once I've finished painting up the last couple of batches of dwarves I have on the desk, as I like to batch base my units due to the longer drying times. </li>
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<br />Rexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17650208351837081612noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2407582606521317826.post-64624656990053306582019-03-19T23:56:00.000+00:002019-03-19T23:56:32.558+00:00Epic 40k terrain<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I knocked this up as a quick test piece to see if this idea was viable for epic scale terrain! I wanted to do some oldhammer, 2nd edition style terrain bits and thought the 40k cacti was the perfect, odd ball alien terrain to try out! <br /><br />I'm pretty pleased to how it turned out, I can definitely see me making a whole table in this style! There are a couple of issues with this piece that I can do work arounds when I make more. The flock on the main body of the plant has dried a lot darker then it was when I put it on- It might lighten back up once it's fully set over night, but I think this is down to using isopropanol to help the glue soak in, and some of the spikes have gone in at odd angles. Both things will be easy to correct later on! <br /><br />Sadly my camera doens't seem to photograph red well (which as someone that likes painting oldhammer from time to time, has been a real problem!) But there is about four tones of red on the spikes- it looks much nicer in real life (Imo!) The flock doens't look so patchy to the naked eye either! <br /><br />A lot of fun and a very different style of terrain to my usual grey, bombed out urban terrain! <br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlVI7Bf8T4D3Bt6MTSHPQ9OYLFHWf3OQjfgSxAdMD3L-Ckqt9ffA6UrXVZMd6BN-imoVia2ZSGCmFcEK0T8IRwwshgk_VB_4ETJknmi9O4etQekos76QKRP3R7y7gPw3qhbmvcGOE_PeU/s1600/01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1019" data-original-width="1600" height="404" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlVI7Bf8T4D3Bt6MTSHPQ9OYLFHWf3OQjfgSxAdMD3L-Ckqt9ffA6UrXVZMd6BN-imoVia2ZSGCmFcEK0T8IRwwshgk_VB_4ETJknmi9O4etQekos76QKRP3R7y7gPw3qhbmvcGOE_PeU/s640/01.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Epic 40k Cactus terrain! </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5_r6nuMxLSHDRXKBoD7PRiZ1WJUO7EPt9-iwYbaqHMgY66pQ4Qi24BCTLOSD_f9QntAEg6ZVpeQG7n0ZNPQAik1pzolIsV5CCfKP9azJBOm5rRQS7XRHgHPUmJMStGJKjz4g2Z8Qprzc/s1600/02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="961" data-original-width="1600" height="384" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5_r6nuMxLSHDRXKBoD7PRiZ1WJUO7EPt9-iwYbaqHMgY66pQ4Qi24BCTLOSD_f9QntAEg6ZVpeQG7n0ZNPQAik1pzolIsV5CCfKP9azJBOm5rRQS7XRHgHPUmJMStGJKjz4g2Z8Qprzc/s640/02.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My Feral Ork Boar boys love the new alien terrain! </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij0ncZnWtZMhPAPMxmODK8tv7rsZBkS5cumu4K66dpQyXc6EF0AqenQl_PJWjWiMIFf9DQPZHENyc35DIkJS5gpbbaRQOoIPNscHXhBxNy8d3Fkxz9JvCcMnzow18qRd-m5p-tsyO4sVo/s1600/03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="980" data-original-width="1600" height="392" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij0ncZnWtZMhPAPMxmODK8tv7rsZBkS5cumu4K66dpQyXc6EF0AqenQl_PJWjWiMIFf9DQPZHENyc35DIkJS5gpbbaRQOoIPNscHXhBxNy8d3Fkxz9JvCcMnzow18qRd-m5p-tsyO4sVo/s640/03.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Orks are a mix of perfect six and games workshop models. </td></tr>
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What I absolute love is that they fit in with both my regular trees but also these winter style trees bases I made with the same style basing. I love Grey/winter/urban themed terrain the most, but I've wanted to be able to add more of a classic brown/natural looking terrain, but find it hard to blend the two styles together and as I don't want to make terrain I can't really use on my table (even if it does rarely happen!) I've tended to stick to grey and winter. This will allow me to have different areas of terrain style all on the same table, which will really add to the size of our campaigns! Now my feral orks feel much more at home, then on the cold, snowy city-scape they are used too! <br /><br />Rexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17650208351837081612noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2407582606521317826.post-1753370585642231362019-03-19T00:30:00.000+00:002019-03-19T00:30:21.085+00:00Wip: Epic 40k Warhound A wip of warhound proxy, from Vanguard miniatures. Needs basing and detailing work. Great mini, now it's almost finished but an absolute sod to glue into position. The feet pistons take a bit of work and I've had to pin it with some heavy duty 2mm brass rod, as I just don't trust the crappy glue I have, he's a pretty hefty mini. <br /><br /><span id="goog_1205850541"></span><span id="goog_1205850542"></span>I painted him up late last year, but he's been staring at me for weeks now, waiting to be based! <br /><br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDTS5gaFiYJtHDN8W9SUWcXh86gWS911HLoLFMShwyQOpaIqzM61NL5-mA8rLTmoZgFkeRx7AsBFhyphenhyphen0WC30JYNVOyTr_58afu44MN4Ir8S62Z_BHnVfmAqNtzpWQdWfA3kWDfvtn9stEk/s1600/warhound+2+wip.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1205" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDTS5gaFiYJtHDN8W9SUWcXh86gWS911HLoLFMShwyQOpaIqzM61NL5-mA8rLTmoZgFkeRx7AsBFhyphenhyphen0WC30JYNVOyTr_58afu44MN4Ir8S62Z_BHnVfmAqNtzpWQdWfA3kWDfvtn9stEk/s640/warhound+2+wip.jpg" width="482" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Adeptus Mechanicus Scheme Warhound </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmqQgYNxecJSaVXOvHp-bbmnmCzkR-oZrLwmGST2u7AkQBbpKCypll_lv5KaqZV1q9fDx_lpod0946tpfjj7uCcgGWb36xd554lYqDFBr-zjs-byolBJcWtdFsVPXwaHimwpu_vigK99w/s1600/Warhound+1+WIP.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1329" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmqQgYNxecJSaVXOvHp-bbmnmCzkR-oZrLwmGST2u7AkQBbpKCypll_lv5KaqZV1q9fDx_lpod0946tpfjj7uCcgGWb36xd554lYqDFBr-zjs-byolBJcWtdFsVPXwaHimwpu_vigK99w/s640/Warhound+1+WIP.jpg" width="530" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Adeptus Mechanicus Scheme Warhound </td></tr>
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<br />Rexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17650208351837081612noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2407582606521317826.post-26064634215604831932019-03-19T00:19:00.001+00:002019-03-19T00:20:14.920+00:00WiP Epic 30k Horus Heresy: Loyalist Emperors Children Istvaan III<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Finished off some more of my defenders of Istvann III loyalist Emperors Children. Some of these had been part painted and had gotten mixed up amongst the finished stuff. Not sure if I'll go with snow basing (to match my Orks) or dead grass, too add a neutral colour to them. <br />
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Models are from Vanguard Miniatures and are a real joy to paint, I'll be trying to smash through another lot soon to empty their storage tub, mostly as a good excuse to order some more! Great minis and so easy to paint! The vehicles and Dreads are some of the cleanest and sharpest minis I've ever painted, especially at this scale! <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLk6uUXSA7-JVx0Pt77MR_ed4NNvX7peaojmDiRcquliWid2VY5Wg1chqTwMSHwDDgCIL5JqBXmUpJNk7wquzc0YjfkVNL7E60Umbe2zKX5d02jsLxiGW2kqvxShq_qZYv0paEPNyKorA/s1600/emp+children.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="727" data-original-width="1600" height="289" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLk6uUXSA7-JVx0Pt77MR_ed4NNvX7peaojmDiRcquliWid2VY5Wg1chqTwMSHwDDgCIL5JqBXmUpJNk7wquzc0YjfkVNL7E60Umbe2zKX5d02jsLxiGW2kqvxShq_qZYv0paEPNyKorA/s640/emp+children.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Emperors Children<br />
Vanguard Miniatures</td></tr>
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<br />Rexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17650208351837081612noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2407582606521317826.post-49469856706824057912019-03-19T00:07:00.000+00:002019-03-19T00:07:10.933+00:00Wip Fantasy <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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More work on the dwarven units, for our old world project. Unit of dwarf slayers and a unit of dwarf handgunners, ready for a matt coat and basing. Dwarves from Microworlds range. Gunpowder barrels and ammo crates from Perfect six.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH0kxC-w2icA-J1Lzp24y03ZANACp2pHAMIYqSI0V5htmGVNgrMNFq-VYw-QCXOS2Y46WGZUBUPSkn9ZnSyatm7XmOIqdZVz1w-ECDfROFsCmFHDP964mLzob4T_Nm-0Vj8FQYfGKDm-k/s1600/Dwarves+WiP.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="658" data-original-width="1600" height="260" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH0kxC-w2icA-J1Lzp24y03ZANACp2pHAMIYqSI0V5htmGVNgrMNFq-VYw-QCXOS2Y46WGZUBUPSkn9ZnSyatm7XmOIqdZVz1w-ECDfROFsCmFHDP964mLzob4T_Nm-0Vj8FQYfGKDm-k/s640/Dwarves+WiP.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dwarves; Slayers and handgunners <br />Microworld miniatures. </td></tr>
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<br /><br />Rexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17650208351837081612noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2407582606521317826.post-52364880224923749062019-03-18T21:05:00.001+00:002019-03-18T22:56:20.287+00:00WIP Fantasy Some current WIP fantasy units. We are planning a 6mm recreation of some of the famous warhammer fantasy battles that took place in the old world. Going to be using much larger bases then before- probably 80mmx30mm for basic infantry, to give that truly epic, mass battle feel to the games. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dwarf Slayers <br />
Miniatures from Microworld games</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja33YKlGPgECU-xzCZg2I4IG9MYZ8ewJJMwadINpKTOBn4JaWCklH0Ta32VMbc_dUVfpCll-CdlzaZ7yuka_-G8fcj4cU0SdtcWwoQZRftOItpdLOu0NcSakyfCpTs_QeRwQgPzReWuuc/s1600/IMG_20190306_224314.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja33YKlGPgECU-xzCZg2I4IG9MYZ8ewJJMwadINpKTOBn4JaWCklH0Ta32VMbc_dUVfpCll-CdlzaZ7yuka_-G8fcj4cU0SdtcWwoQZRftOItpdLOu0NcSakyfCpTs_QeRwQgPzReWuuc/s400/IMG_20190306_224314.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jungle Orc Squig herders <br />
Miniatures from Perfect Six</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Orc Boar Chariot <br />
Miniature from Perfect Six </td></tr>
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<br />Rexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17650208351837081612noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2407582606521317826.post-80349858915018175942019-03-18T19:30:00.001+00:002019-03-18T22:46:05.378+00:00Now with 100% more Small Scale Gothic Sci-Fi! So I've not posted anything for well over a year. 2018 was a busy year for me- a very hectic year for school, I'm travelling 4+ hours a day. Spent most of the year working on larger scale stuff. 2019 has seen me return to the huge pile of 6mm fantasy lead that's been piling up around me. I've also decided to break the pile of Epic 40k models, espcailly since I now have a good storage system for them set up! I did spend the summer working on my fantasy rule set, which I wrote a couple of articles on, but I'm just not pleased with their quality, and so remain unpublished. I may return to them in the future. <br />
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With already running a larger scale wargaming blog, I couldn't devote more time to keeping a separate 6mm sci-fantasy blog. So I've decided to consolidate both fantasy and sci-fi to this one blog, allowing to include my work on epic (which IMO is pretty much closer to sci-fantasy then sci-fi, than other games/ranges and there is a lot of cross over with the two ranges anyway!) <br />
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This will allow me to share my epic work (something I don't do much on facebook anymore for several reasons) and still have the time to keep all my separate blogs updated. I choose this one over moving fantasy over to one of my other blogs as the traffic to this one, why only small, is good for the scale as there are not many dedicated 6mm fantasy pages out there. The cross over between the ranges should help keep this blog receiving updates far more regularly then it has done over the last year! (and I can always remove/transfer the epic 40k pages if they ever become an issue!) <br />
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I have been working on a fair bit of 6mm fantasy though. We are planning to play some classic warhammer fantasy games with the armies, fighting through some of the classic wars fought during the old worlds history. I'll be adding a lot of posts in the future with the WIP of this rather large project. (This is also the good excuse I've been needing to do another huge microworld order!) <br />
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Given these changes, I've given this blog a huge makeover. I've added some pages for 6mm sci-fi and Epic 40k and I'll be adding even more pages in the future. I'll also be adding a range of pages for fantasy, hopefully with a lot of new (and much better quality!) photos of all the 6mm fantasy I own. <br />
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I've removed some of the redundant links from the navigation bar, though some of the old blog posts may still link to old articles and tutorials, I've begun removing the worst of them, with the intention of posting new versions in the future (Ones of much higher quality then the first tutorials I did) Rexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17650208351837081612noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2407582606521317826.post-14215249202625229192019-03-07T20:04:00.002+00:002022-08-01T20:10:46.395+01:00Jungle Orcs- Perfect Six Miniatures<div class="" dir="auto"><div class="ecm0bbzt hv4rvrfc ihqw7lf3 dati1w0a" data-ad-comet-preview="message" data-ad-preview="message" id="jsc_c_18u"><div class="j83agx80 cbu4d94t ew0dbk1b irj2b8pg"><div class="qzhwtbm6 knvmm38d"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql lr9zc1uh a8c37x1j fe6kdd0r mau55g9w c8b282yb keod5gw0 nxhoafnm aigsh9s9 d3f4x2em iv3no6db jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v b1v8xokw oo9gr5id hzawbc8m" dir="auto"><div class="kvgmc6g5 cxmmr5t8 oygrvhab hcukyx3x c1et5uql ii04i59q"><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql lr9zc1uh a8c37x1j fe6kdd0r mau55g9w c8b282yb keod5gw0 nxhoafnm aigsh9s9 d3f4x2em iv3no6db jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v b1v8xokw oo9gr5id hzawbc8m" dir="auto">Unit
of jungle orcs beast herders and a orc boar chariot. Still to do basing but will tackle that when all the units
on my desk are painted and out the way.</span></div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql lr9zc1uh a8c37x1j fe6kdd0r mau55g9w c8b282yb keod5gw0 nxhoafnm aigsh9s9 d3f4x2em iv3no6db jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v b1v8xokw oo9gr5id hzawbc8m" dir="auto"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimw8Fvyvsfy2hMavmPw2WcS-letesbyjN3Hhmpv7keutieQ__pEeiWdlB4t2S9UzspC39-ykQoiBTsL-08U1D_9M8XwL2_Kdq3J_iGPz4_abzbEZ7J0D6QY15v-myiVTO_5_K8wHTtCSEedv63yqmyOWLJ5CMCHTDC0zfnk9H5SPlv0ynTgDEJzSx3/s1080/88265880_2542697202716377_5686279912399306752_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="810" data-original-width="1080" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimw8Fvyvsfy2hMavmPw2WcS-letesbyjN3Hhmpv7keutieQ__pEeiWdlB4t2S9UzspC39-ykQoiBTsL-08U1D_9M8XwL2_Kdq3J_iGPz4_abzbEZ7J0D6QY15v-myiVTO_5_K8wHTtCSEedv63yqmyOWLJ5CMCHTDC0zfnk9H5SPlv0ynTgDEJzSx3/w640-h480/88265880_2542697202716377_5686279912399306752_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Orc Beast Herders (<a href="https://perfectsixscenics.co.uk/shop/ols/products/orc-boulder-golemsherder" target="_blank">Perfect Six Miniatures</a>)<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /> </span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7FuuTZKwqnds6WRVrhdv8P55nhJfiNFftjWKYUTckT0gh-37Lv4c0VBj2LWBkLIAlGY-Srd9zP0YuWavjSq_YKiKPL_dRFvPzabFS19IB3z5Mkrc5A_HokWoq6TAPnKtPpTXDplULQ9VVH0v3kzP81DTSUsUjwN04OmZCCSU8yffx1hYkNFThxPgz/s1080/87626623_2542697256049705_6887007671480745984_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="810" data-original-width="1080" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7FuuTZKwqnds6WRVrhdv8P55nhJfiNFftjWKYUTckT0gh-37Lv4c0VBj2LWBkLIAlGY-Srd9zP0YuWavjSq_YKiKPL_dRFvPzabFS19IB3z5Mkrc5A_HokWoq6TAPnKtPpTXDplULQ9VVH0v3kzP81DTSUsUjwN04OmZCCSU8yffx1hYkNFThxPgz/w640-h480/87626623_2542697256049705_6887007671480745984_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Orc Boar Chariot (<a href="https://perfectsixscenics.co.uk/shop/ols/products/orc-chariot" target="_blank">Perfect Six Miniatures</a>)<br /></td></tr></tbody></table></div></div><div class="cxmmr5t8 oygrvhab hcukyx3x c1et5uql o9v6fnle ii04i59q"><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;">Everything is from perfect 6s range. Fantastic models, good for fantasy and for epic 40k. I really pushed myself to add some extra details with these, the chequerboard patterns on the armour plates were a real pain, such a small area to work with. Don't think I could do the whole army with them though!</div></div></span></div></div></div></div><p> </p>Rexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17650208351837081612noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2407582606521317826.post-20660158350057444502017-12-15T20:18:00.001+00:002022-08-01T20:26:21.942+01:006mm Fantasy Terrain<div class="" dir="auto"><div class="ecm0bbzt hv4rvrfc ihqw7lf3 dati1w0a" data-ad-comet-preview="message" data-ad-preview="message" id="jsc_c_1xy"><div class="j83agx80 cbu4d94t ew0dbk1b irj2b8pg"><div class="qzhwtbm6 knvmm38d"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql lr9zc1uh a8c37x1j fe6kdd0r mau55g9w c8b282yb keod5gw0 nxhoafnm aigsh9s9 d3f4x2em iv3no6db jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v b1v8xokw oo9gr5id hzawbc8m" dir="auto"><div class="kvgmc6g5 cxmmr5t8 oygrvhab hcukyx3x c1et5uql ii04i59q"><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;">Built myself some more tiny fantasy <span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql lr9zc1uh a8c37x1j fe6kdd0r mau55g9w c8b282yb keod5gw0 nxhoafnm aigsh9s9 d3f4x2em iv3no6db jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v b1v8xokw oo9gr5id hzawbc8m" dir="auto">terrain</span>! Also got a few more bits from my Perfect six selection box done, though I need to find an hour next week to base them!</div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidjDOhRNME3xNUglv7JfV7yj26Frvy1tv_AYP20V8-2ba56S6Qe5u-YqppD8XYt5_y3PN67C4ZvjeRmSu8Bk2bj9h4AvKukvZKZZ6-z8jvi_UqSXnh2vOtyj2J_tV6BOGApYUx23BrXhsgcmUGpjUYDNaFWSr48bojeOm_ZvX9-SrJmhFYxhAo9Da7/s1553/25394715_1936684936650943_4507547557636497056_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1553" data-original-width="1252" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidjDOhRNME3xNUglv7JfV7yj26Frvy1tv_AYP20V8-2ba56S6Qe5u-YqppD8XYt5_y3PN67C4ZvjeRmSu8Bk2bj9h4AvKukvZKZZ6-z8jvi_UqSXnh2vOtyj2J_tV6BOGApYUx23BrXhsgcmUGpjUYDNaFWSr48bojeOm_ZvX9-SrJmhFYxhAo9Da7/w517-h640/25394715_1936684936650943_4507547557636497056_o.jpg" width="517" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj30LcRarSeiobEDFVMrEv8mu398LGnHMyHQvpfHZQJp4iLKQILPooaqY8UmW5wJYgMmgKaxMWNYIxjgR5ytPdkuQ7fufUtCEC4AB1gEs7OE1K93AzFLX4agG4Wszb-PbwS9yfjU5YdcGCr5XhvkimKAs6H_TaABk5kyCSOMpCHnokv2IMqBK_8Mj2c/w640-h480/25394638_1936685196650917_9041753179329209759_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhskKAvgRoYWGO_903kXs8-94t5MMCvwUSmUm_a8raM6WbuxRcAGQJjLEtbzJ8JVQKdegJXb7JRlkkqAYfTWmKWduhe-50JLVH_r3P7QlQpRNb9nXzzr8RGJY5wRftwBnua20OnUK0P0Q0fheVuwijErS2KNE37SHHNiVgNlnUB_nW6Gc1Qo66FoUz8/s2048/25358678_1936685259984244_246548989275185022_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhskKAvgRoYWGO_903kXs8-94t5MMCvwUSmUm_a8raM6WbuxRcAGQJjLEtbzJ8JVQKdegJXb7JRlkkqAYfTWmKWduhe-50JLVH_r3P7QlQpRNb9nXzzr8RGJY5wRftwBnua20OnUK0P0Q0fheVuwijErS2KNE37SHHNiVgNlnUB_nW6Gc1Qo66FoUz8/w640-h480/25358678_1936685259984244_246548989275185022_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /></span></div></div></div></div>Rexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17650208351837081612noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2407582606521317826.post-76968269974608556242017-12-03T12:47:00.001+00:002019-03-18T22:57:09.918+00:006mm Dragon In Treasure Room <div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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I painted this dragon a fair long while ago now, but due to trying to juggle life, as well as going back to uni, I forgot to upload the pictures here. <br />
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This is my 6mm scale 'not' Smaug in his treasure room from The Hobbit film. The Dragon is from perfect six miniatures <a href="http://www.perfectsixscenics.co.uk/6mm-order-of-the-dragon.html" target="_blank">Dragon knight range</a> and is fantastic. (It is also currently included in the christmas sale!) It was so much fun to paint, that I'm desperately trying to come up with reasons to need to paint more of them! The treasure base was really good fun to make. The little crates of spilled loot were also from the Perfect Six range, a mixture of crates and ammo boxes. <br />
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The Moleman warband with their stone golems were created to be used as part of my 6mm dungeon set, as was the tiles and the counters, treasure and rubble, seen at the back of the tile. Sadly, with too much on, this project is taking a back seat for now. <br />
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<br />Rexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17650208351837081612noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2407582606521317826.post-41465752395019609942017-07-13T21:31:00.000+01:002019-03-18T22:56:50.109+00:00Tutorial: Trees <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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In this first guide I will show you how I make my forest terrain for 6mm fantasy, as well as for 6mm sci-fi. As well as the terrain piece shown today, I also use the same techniques for the small poker chip wood tokens, for my winter themed Epic 40k Ork terrain, and for individual base decoration. <br />
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They cost only a few Cents per base.<br />
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Take a selection of green craft paints (dont use your best miniature paints for this) and some green pipe cleaners. I went for three to fill a roughly two inch base, with some left over for future projects. <br />
Cut the pipe cleaners down to a fingertip larger that the bottle of craft paint. These craft paint bottles are the exact right size for the project- a pipe cleaner will split into three with the fingertip left over, as well as having the right size nozzle in the lid.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv3mZmPima0ePww6y_nkToQZdJTvsx3FdtoJAEU1P5C59gwtd82wGDTbto8hapJjpyzWubhJzQ6LXwPMY2OiGziKE-2cJsq5J8y64Sg_-epvwFEqkADXhMdaC7GGzBoCDLjuyUmmqlwJs/s1600/Trees+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Tutorial 6mm Tree Guide" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv3mZmPima0ePww6y_nkToQZdJTvsx3FdtoJAEU1P5C59gwtd82wGDTbto8hapJjpyzWubhJzQ6LXwPMY2OiGziKE-2cJsq5J8y64Sg_-epvwFEqkADXhMdaC7GGzBoCDLjuyUmmqlwJs/s400/Trees+2.JPG" title="" width="225" /></a></div>
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Insert the pipe cleaner into the bottle of craft paint through the lids small hole. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrAzpydwv3nZtIDIpa_NxNGv-Z8f2O6RlFYKbtUNdO24p4IgCF4DRnFE0yPneJS6cqaEFGBEy2CY53g3eOoWkNYxwukXSyfhFGew8sFZ5WhGmmJBjNnzo4uqbMytsCjWqiJS3A_qi_j3g/s1600/Trees+3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Tutorial 6mm Tree Guide" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrAzpydwv3nZtIDIpa_NxNGv-Z8f2O6RlFYKbtUNdO24p4IgCF4DRnFE0yPneJS6cqaEFGBEy2CY53g3eOoWkNYxwukXSyfhFGew8sFZ5WhGmmJBjNnzo4uqbMytsCjWqiJS3A_qi_j3g/s400/Trees+3.JPG" title="" width="225" /></a></div>
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Push the pipe cleaner all the way to the bottom. The fingertip size left over is so you can pull it out again with out getting mucky, as well marking what will be the top of the trees. When its at the bottom of the bottle, with your finger over the top of the hole, give the bottle a shake and a roll, so that the pipe cleaner is heavily coated with paint. <br />
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Pull the pipe cleaner out slowly- these bottles have just the right sized hole for this to work- as it comes out, it will pull the excess paint from the pipe cleaner, as well as pulling the bristles all in the same direction- this will help hide the wire inside, as well as help give the pipe a tree like shape.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid0reFoJDrHJ4I732oAL0CwLe7C2s4eFdt_SPeDjGAriCoNp8f_F4hdkJLYc89uGFAFNXQTNFKc8uEPgiYGatQR5fePmkTf17h5GQjfs5i611SOway2AtHSnWz8td9-iBlHnPHMd-TMX8/s1600/Trees+4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Tutorial 6mm Tree Guide" border="0" data-original-height="1436" data-original-width="1600" height="358" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid0reFoJDrHJ4I732oAL0CwLe7C2s4eFdt_SPeDjGAriCoNp8f_F4hdkJLYc89uGFAFNXQTNFKc8uEPgiYGatQR5fePmkTf17h5GQjfs5i611SOway2AtHSnWz8td9-iBlHnPHMd-TMX8/s400/Trees+4.JPG" title="" width="400" /></a></div>
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I used 5 different shades of green for this one. I'd normally use two or three, but I can no longer get the original two colours here, I brought them over from the UK, so I thought I'd try my new shades as well as adding some of the old colours, to help blend this with my older woodland terrain. <br />
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Leave the pipes to dry overnight. Make sure to keep the pipes in order of the paint colours, as you will need to return to the original paint again later.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2CzG5_GvP3ofI4e8KK5nmhkUrcEeqzav63Hittx5uLo0HSsPd0pO6_KQfS4GyJGvQJMQ33b6g0QmkcmiVlm60nKMcZGklWUV7rcNl0stVwnEQZ0fx6KAxrikyPANptYtFklHKNXbByk0/s1600/Trees+5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Tutorial 6mm Tree Guide" border="0" data-original-height="993" data-original-width="1600" height="247" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2CzG5_GvP3ofI4e8KK5nmhkUrcEeqzav63Hittx5uLo0HSsPd0pO6_KQfS4GyJGvQJMQ33b6g0QmkcmiVlm60nKMcZGklWUV7rcNl0stVwnEQZ0fx6KAxrikyPANptYtFklHKNXbByk0/s400/Trees+5.JPG" title="" width="400" /></a></div>
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After drying overnight, cut the the pipes down further into 3-4 more sections. I use a heavy pair of kitchen scissors for this, as the wire can be tough to cut through with craft scissors. My personal preference is to cut the lighter, bright green in to the small trees to indicate 'newer' trees and the darker olive colours in to the larger sections. I dont make too many of the smallest '4 section' trees as I only use some on the outside of the base for smaller new trees. I mostly make larger, dark trees.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjazZnew8jj-uRiaW2YQVL4gu0F9L7KSA0brlzd2Ri7lj0oPhCo2Ganq0FIm_cH2smPcbWQuyzMZlAOWCj0Ikl1UtMRef__IHE3k_DgRbqAnw66NOZpyDxFVRh4Hf878SZT20DNMzNc4Hk/s1600/Trees+6.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Tutorial 6mm Tree Guide" border="0" data-original-height="1185" data-original-width="1600" height="295" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjazZnew8jj-uRiaW2YQVL4gu0F9L7KSA0brlzd2Ri7lj0oPhCo2Ganq0FIm_cH2smPcbWQuyzMZlAOWCj0Ikl1UtMRef__IHE3k_DgRbqAnw66NOZpyDxFVRh4Hf878SZT20DNMzNc4Hk/s400/Trees+6.JPG" title="" width="400" /></a></div>
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Snip off the tip of the top end of the pipe cleaners at angles, to give them tree shapes. The top end will be the end that was facing the fingertip part from the start- the pipe cleaner will have the bristles in the right direction then. You can add cuts up and down the tree as you see fit, until you have a tree shape you are happy with. Cut the bottom of the tree dead flat but dont cut anything away from it, you will need the whole piece to connect it to the base. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcNYyBUobfiN7iRITmyo6Zd8i40ORlRHI0G9x9UYA509tqDaOjAzwxvu43aFwoS-xsq0ZdxLBs4o8UX61h4-dedV_WE-ZJmqAfuNzq_hM65O989bVlrhGS1D-6A_r3f6v-gaI8j5zTUu0/s1600/Trees+7.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Tutorial 6mm Tree Guide" border="0" data-original-height="1119" data-original-width="1600" height="278" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcNYyBUobfiN7iRITmyo6Zd8i40ORlRHI0G9x9UYA509tqDaOjAzwxvu43aFwoS-xsq0ZdxLBs4o8UX61h4-dedV_WE-ZJmqAfuNzq_hM65O989bVlrhGS1D-6A_r3f6v-gaI8j5zTUu0/s400/Trees+7.JPG" title="" width="400" /></a></div>
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When you are happy with your trees, and they are as tree shaped as you can get them, then add a dab of the original colour to the tip where you cut the them at an angle. This is too cover the wire from showing though, as well as fixing the bristles in place. Depending on you pipe cleaners, you may need to add glue. Very cheap pipe cleaners can come apart when cut, and this is too hold the bristles in place. These pipe cleaners are from hobbycraft (in the UK) and the dab of paint is enough to hold them together solidly. When adding the paint, pull the brush down to blend the heavy dab at the top into the bristles going down. Leave to completely dry. An hour or two is best. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaKQsqp9GtzupKndLGSFyFyenGIyoD_YhsQwikiI0YtPafpRDcEUTqN01hQMJqw_VHbOWXcNBCGyMeiyNQfKreWz64QNH4PAWDptWsxWI__mnji8PLPLF0Xhi9f2hSSXYRB6RT_qKerAM/s1600/Trees+8.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Tutorial 6mm Tree Guide" border="0" data-original-height="1028" data-original-width="1600" height="205" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaKQsqp9GtzupKndLGSFyFyenGIyoD_YhsQwikiI0YtPafpRDcEUTqN01hQMJqw_VHbOWXcNBCGyMeiyNQfKreWz64QNH4PAWDptWsxWI__mnji8PLPLF0Xhi9f2hSSXYRB6RT_qKerAM/s320/Trees+8.JPG" title="" width="320" /></a></div>
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Cut a base out to the size you want. I used the chip board backing to a cheap photoframe from my local pound shop, as I dont seem to be able to get huge sheets of it locally. One frame can give you about 5-10 bases, its a little more costly this way, but this stuff is easy to work with, and still only €1.50. I trim the edge down a little so its sits a little nicer on the table, sand the edges down, so there is no areas where the board is splitting apart. I lightly sand the top to help the glue stick. <br />
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I cut a light 'X' shape in to the bottom. I have read that this will help stop with warping, but I'm not sure if this is true or not, but since it did not warp, I have to believe it helped!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkXNpnySwWLpZNElWq5uK-eEhwQbuZ60P-OGAuAbW13xtE56Gt3QVau_NCun03ARMhGtKx8Y9EmLjnC4QI2dxuujtk9sUwNsv3uEBM3yx-uhAb4gBPL0wVm3Pl-qyDWc10P5lCF5CNUAI/s1600/Trees+9.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Tutorial 6mm Tree Guide" border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkXNpnySwWLpZNElWq5uK-eEhwQbuZ60P-OGAuAbW13xtE56Gt3QVau_NCun03ARMhGtKx8Y9EmLjnC4QI2dxuujtk9sUwNsv3uEBM3yx-uhAb4gBPL0wVm3Pl-qyDWc10P5lCF5CNUAI/s400/Trees+9.JPG" title="" width="400" /></a></div>
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I add a layer of tacky glue (less water and dries faster than regular PVA). A couple of small fish tank stones, a very small amount of the black ballast I use on my mini bases, and finish it off with the cheap, fine bird cage grit. I leave it to dry for a few hours. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheVYmROkXPl1S4sC0v4jTW4zyc6_0g_SrkE-b6c6ieFz_knA67qHTTt6OO58qG84C1OVUrwYHE8KJq2JDIk3RpCfDQIVMyhkyZ7i_HjRp1lk0gqFEg33Us_QVvV3TZm0chhYpP1KUrTew/s1600/trees+10.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Tutorial 6mm Tree Guide" border="0" data-original-height="1547" data-original-width="1600" height="386" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheVYmROkXPl1S4sC0v4jTW4zyc6_0g_SrkE-b6c6ieFz_knA67qHTTt6OO58qG84C1OVUrwYHE8KJq2JDIk3RpCfDQIVMyhkyZ7i_HjRp1lk0gqFEg33Us_QVvV3TZm0chhYpP1KUrTew/s400/trees+10.JPG" title="" width="400" /></a></div>
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When completely dry I add a black sand wash to seal the sand (<a href="https://6mmfantasy.blogspot.ie/p/painting-footnote.html" target="_blank"><i><b>instructions on how to make sand wash can be found here on my paint annotations page )</b></i></a><i><b> </b></i>then I use a milkshake cap and a heavy item (in this case the black lava gel from my desk) to help weight the base down to stop any warping while it dries. Make sure that what ever you place on top of the cap wont fall off, or if it does it wont spill every where! <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbqw_aS8iYKYQWONIsjOdqYSHjJkUL_7mjdz3jW43RkJNpb_sqybP2FMPGRY3tZCJqmEbnbt1GiPl5hj_lmzUGKYVBTGnHX_YbCo_uaG3zPuoSbUjK4CD3CEbx_wtB-ZIcIGq2YnyHswo/s1600/Trees+11.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Tutorial 6mm Tree Guide" border="0" data-original-height="1307" data-original-width="1600" height="326" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbqw_aS8iYKYQWONIsjOdqYSHjJkUL_7mjdz3jW43RkJNpb_sqybP2FMPGRY3tZCJqmEbnbt1GiPl5hj_lmzUGKYVBTGnHX_YbCo_uaG3zPuoSbUjK4CD3CEbx_wtB-ZIcIGq2YnyHswo/s400/Trees+11.JPG" title="" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i><b> </b></i>When the wash is dry the base is given a black undercoat. You could skip this step and proceed straight to the next, but I like the overall tone that working from black gives.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_OUcj4D8NgSJuyIOAVGB3RDXyiBUiuTOz2aNoKg58ZBvn1ikCwzqzTj8282FeK5IVrZemhvmfnwKhGYX2stooKkKMN5jd4H4JLKP4ivuxAUj6QQsh4Xgt5PzH4pi1tw1_OW8RjAUhTpA/s1600/Trees+12.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Tutorial 6mm Tree Guide" border="0" data-original-height="1006" data-original-width="1600" height="251" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_OUcj4D8NgSJuyIOAVGB3RDXyiBUiuTOz2aNoKg58ZBvn1ikCwzqzTj8282FeK5IVrZemhvmfnwKhGYX2stooKkKMN5jd4H4JLKP4ivuxAUj6QQsh4Xgt5PzH4pi1tw1_OW8RjAUhTpA/s400/Trees+12.JPG" title="" width="400" /></a></div>
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A heavy 'wetbrush' of Brown is done all over. I used vallejo 984 Flat Brown. Wetbrushing is similar to drybrushing but you leave more paint on the brush, rather than wiping it all off. I find the best amount is to soak the brush, wipe most of it away, then run it through the thinnest edge of paint on the pallet again. This is a pretty heavy coat, but make sure its uneven. You want sections of the black to show through, especially more towards the centre where the trees will be places.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGVcZoJJhqDDgEJkD0tw0RwGq60AArlMi_Ibvfv3gKzzbb0TELxipeYtBtOGStcbZx_okQ_f3MhaMrL44CGs9gh5ZMcV75v_gpZdzmUj6MH3QCM3dd0ubaanMN4vcDZa8uUdUKilsVt38/s1600/Trees+13.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Tutorial 6mm Tree Guide" border="0" data-original-height="1236" data-original-width="1600" height="308" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGVcZoJJhqDDgEJkD0tw0RwGq60AArlMi_Ibvfv3gKzzbb0TELxipeYtBtOGStcbZx_okQ_f3MhaMrL44CGs9gh5ZMcV75v_gpZdzmUj6MH3QCM3dd0ubaanMN4vcDZa8uUdUKilsVt38/s400/Trees+13.JPG" title="" width="400" /></a></div>
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I give the base a heavy and uneven coat of agrax earthshade. You could use any brown wash, or even skip this step. I like to included it, even though most of the base will be covered, as it adds some nice shade to the stones- where trees wont be placed, as well as adding some more shades of brown to ground, brown can look flat if its all the same shade. Give it a good hour to dry.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAJyDkenUp82Lgwwb2gTkwBRYLXI46SCiQC6a5EBtBoAihF-wmmDUUceQJN2u8fTQG3Qy1xwaGSSxgtgRfOUMWfje9BqVYk5x5FURNC0IzW3Rln91JqOYFL15RCXwQ1OAydXcn43dItWE/s1600/IMG_2158.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Tutorial 6mm Tree Guide" border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAJyDkenUp82Lgwwb2gTkwBRYLXI46SCiQC6a5EBtBoAihF-wmmDUUceQJN2u8fTQG3Qy1xwaGSSxgtgRfOUMWfje9BqVYk5x5FURNC0IzW3Rln91JqOYFL15RCXwQ1OAydXcn43dItWE/s400/IMG_2158.JPG" title="" width="400" /></a></div>
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Drybrush the final colours to the base. I changed my usual scheme here, and went for new colours, as I'm trying to add a few more colours to my painting. I did random patches of Vallejo 977 Desert yellow, then did the rest of the gaps and stones with Citadels Rakarth Flesh. I made sure that I went over the edges of both colours again with the opposite colour to blend them together so there were no unnatural straight edges.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVzbqU9JVMJe6hTq-uK2E9yvVBaBqbSIkSxcuAXjxWCOrBMDhGMwsqN5-mSpemEKHSyTje0BjmpyqfLLG0hk06rIlU3I_98SlVjRa-rk_Ihyb1U5dtF78sxJi6DZR7oJ51098WviPlN9c/s1600/Trees+14.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Tutorial 6mm Tree Guide" border="0" data-original-height="1118" data-original-width="1600" height="278" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVzbqU9JVMJe6hTq-uK2E9yvVBaBqbSIkSxcuAXjxWCOrBMDhGMwsqN5-mSpemEKHSyTje0BjmpyqfLLG0hk06rIlU3I_98SlVjRa-rk_Ihyb1U5dtF78sxJi6DZR7oJ51098WviPlN9c/s400/Trees+14.JPG" title="" width="400" /></a></div>
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Take your pile of nicely cut trees and a tube of cheap superglue. Add some super glue to a pallet or scrap of plastic (never our glue straight on to the trees they will soak it up before you know it and you will glue yourself to them!) Dunk the bottom of the tree into the glue and add to the base. You may need to cut the bottom of the tree flat before soaking it if you did not so so earlier, or its a bit bumpy if any of the threads have gotten loose! The glue will soak in to the tree, you want the whole bottom section to be coated, but dont go mad or it will soak through to the outside, and give your trees a solid glossy look! Very slightly more than you usually would glue something is the best, as the glue will soak in to the tree and still needs to get in between the sand on the base! <br />
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I add the larger trees in near the centre and the smaller bright green trees towards the edge, to give the impression of a forest growing outwards. I dont stick to this though, and I try to place the trees as randomly as I can to make it as organic looking. I avoid placing trees on the stones as they will glue uneven and would eventually break off.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsCffzYNaFXmllNfzVW0lg-aA4bmWRlhhldkmLUv66T6Ks0MNwj5Z5xCMnj-GpEmt8qdCq2jD8OWPFCD1XkSJaFj9cKvBhk7t1x2z0mzK7tNBi2F8Q9eZDmHcteO1LyqelYwJ4jt_6YyI/s1600/Trees+15.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Tutorial 6mm Tree Guide" border="0" data-original-height="1045" data-original-width="1600" height="261" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsCffzYNaFXmllNfzVW0lg-aA4bmWRlhhldkmLUv66T6Ks0MNwj5Z5xCMnj-GpEmt8qdCq2jD8OWPFCD1XkSJaFj9cKvBhk7t1x2z0mzK7tNBi2F8Q9eZDmHcteO1LyqelYwJ4jt_6YyI/s400/Trees+15.JPG" title="" width="400" /></a></div>
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Keep going till you are happy with the placement of the trees. You may find that one or two stray strands need fixing up as you go, especially if you are making them in bulk- one always escapes! just even them out with the scissors. I find that they look more natural 'in the flesh' so to speak. The camera picks up on the painted look to them, and under natural light the cuts and paint will look a lot smoother! They are also not so bright! I edited the colours a little to make sure the pictures were nice and clear, but it made the greens a lot brighter than they are! I had about half again in trees left over from the original pipe cleaners, which I'm saving to add to a later project.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpTta8FufLwDDLodMylNu8Dd5EwjXybY_MjT4OlnX3CeAzOx0KQTcOoOQLBlmAW8ngxcmvoc9DWbeXAkRJYdQWW9b_3KOI6ejE8inekiuYZLJqs9RsYUtGVLeFf9M1bjXyCDs0uw3QvDw/s1600/Trees+16.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Tutorial 6mm Tree Guide" border="0" data-original-height="792" data-original-width="1600" height="197" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpTta8FufLwDDLodMylNu8Dd5EwjXybY_MjT4OlnX3CeAzOx0KQTcOoOQLBlmAW8ngxcmvoc9DWbeXAkRJYdQWW9b_3KOI6ejE8inekiuYZLJqs9RsYUtGVLeFf9M1bjXyCDs0uw3QvDw/s400/Trees+16.JPG" title="" width="400" /></a></div>
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So there you have it! Cheap, cheap trees that can be made in bulk very quickly! Adding snow is easy- just add it around the base, and drybrush your mixture onto the trees from the top down. <br />
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They take to drybrushing well (they are solid enough once the the paint is totally dry) if you wanted to add a highlight colour to them and you could add additional flock(s) to them by spraying them with cheap hairspray and sprinkling it on, remembering to spray again to seal the flock after. <br />
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You do have to mind sleeves on them- they are still bendy in the middle, and catching them wrong can bend them, but its simple to bend them back in shape! If they do snap off, just cut the bottom flat again and re-glue! (I've made about 500 of these so far and I've only ever had two snap off- one from general use, and one during a big house move! So they are pretty sturdy!) <br />
<br />Rexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17650208351837081612noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2407582606521317826.post-85731873969035392782017-07-09T23:26:00.000+01:002017-07-09T23:27:07.328+01:00Goblins IIIMore reinforcements for my goblins!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv2PPLQwnngTbp0B7JAR57GxdXVJ3i3oEVm423Vb-UxPQc8eJ3AsAAIJy9ZCxSfOWxw139LmOLdWA70za-Mw59vCdLtuMK907rcsHEfx5ce8nqMyS3dRAbHcLj-BdmP4iveiJyaBZx5BM/s1600/1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="6mm Fantasy Goblins" border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv2PPLQwnngTbp0B7JAR57GxdXVJ3i3oEVm423Vb-UxPQc8eJ3AsAAIJy9ZCxSfOWxw139LmOLdWA70za-Mw59vCdLtuMK907rcsHEfx5ce8nqMyS3dRAbHcLj-BdmP4iveiJyaBZx5BM/s400/1.jpg" title="" width="400" /></a></div>
On the left is another stand of baccus goblins with swords. The other is a large base of Irregular goblins with bows. They are not great, they have very little detail, especially on the head. However, at the time of purchase, they were the ONLY goblins with bows available in this scale. I think I managed to do a good job with them, even with the lack of sculpted detail. a couple of additional brush strokes were able to help create an illusion of details that were missing, like the face. Still fun to paint and work with though. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_tT_P7b1SNzwWua-Y4ijqH3jjQD3hglofLv7-XvElTJmFXkY1a99ZtN8_eK-zkvkqbDAsr8SzvtNFTbMjU4lzpV9pHoTfiEbLlfV068QcLhVq_7UwvfxsiFZfNmOsKVyN35gi2fUIBh0/s1600/2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="6mm Fantasy Goblins" border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_tT_P7b1SNzwWua-Y4ijqH3jjQD3hglofLv7-XvElTJmFXkY1a99ZtN8_eK-zkvkqbDAsr8SzvtNFTbMjU4lzpV9pHoTfiEbLlfV068QcLhVq_7UwvfxsiFZfNmOsKVyN35gi2fUIBh0/s400/2.jpg" title="" width="400" /></a></div>
Goblin bolt thrower. Made from using a baccus Roman thrower, and mixing in various baccus goblins as crew. The wolf rider with additional bolt is just a piece of brass rod, filed down at the sides and the tip painted grey (like my spears) as too not have a sharp rod to cause injury! <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh_qGOA7Ez9p1sutUlBxtYSgf4qI7k0aouw26XIAzHFHSeRv6Hswveppg-jU5fLx3-09liRUTK5f1kquWQXuq69wHpzEYjkjoR6OJQTAtdZLth2yJaqH74HkEqsoykuHSYYLTHAZHjaqY/s1600/3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="6mm Fantasy Goblins" border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh_qGOA7Ez9p1sutUlBxtYSgf4qI7k0aouw26XIAzHFHSeRv6Hswveppg-jU5fLx3-09liRUTK5f1kquWQXuq69wHpzEYjkjoR6OJQTAtdZLth2yJaqH74HkEqsoykuHSYYLTHAZHjaqY/s400/3.jpg" title="" width="400" /></a></div>
Baccus hero goblin in full armour, with axe and shield. The snotling is another irregular lesser goblin, cut away from his stand. The mushroom I sculpted myself. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqON4TMMYuhu3nokrdxRb9VTYgLOiCP_cp2qU4EuLx6Hkv4J7_ZG3JOCGfU9W-YtqESk2bT6HCDe0yMuI3JPOucylbZCD4JBmrlw2jV841fgwJ6065Ut1bz8nfbPKIMunM3M9MnTESbRM/s1600/4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="6mm Fantasy Goblins Trolls" border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqON4TMMYuhu3nokrdxRb9VTYgLOiCP_cp2qU4EuLx6Hkv4J7_ZG3JOCGfU9W-YtqESk2bT6HCDe0yMuI3JPOucylbZCD4JBmrlw2jV841fgwJ6065Ut1bz8nfbPKIMunM3M9MnTESbRM/s400/4.jpg" title="" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span id="goog_1364216561"></span><span id="goog_1364216562"></span>TROLLS! These are some of my favourite miniatures! They are from <a href="http://www.perfectsixscenics.co.uk/6mm-orcs.html" target="_blank">Perfect Six Orc range</a><br />
and they are wonderful to work with! Cleanly cast, and really well detailed! I was able to paint tiny little eye balls they are that good! Very reminiscent of the 'oldhammer' style, or even the trolls from the Berserk manga, I'd be very tempted to paint a whole army of them, just as an excuse to paint more! Brilliant value as well, and being able to buy them as packs or individuals is a god send! Something that often lets larger companies down, like baccus, as sometimes, even at this epic scale, I dont always need 96 of the same troop!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqFKy-gyIWxzYXGmYHbhWa4ed5Tst0n34T_w3Cv-LVMg_MSCWv8oRTWZ6oBNBcButwK5PwDy_21kINEHCM1Yq28N8KmVLDLKXzx-6w0mBPo2hAvNLK2T5UYLnXT5qb1yPbvJMktRQT5bI/s1600/5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="6mm Fantasy Goblins" border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqFKy-gyIWxzYXGmYHbhWa4ed5Tst0n34T_w3Cv-LVMg_MSCWv8oRTWZ6oBNBcButwK5PwDy_21kINEHCM1Yq28N8KmVLDLKXzx-6w0mBPo2hAvNLK2T5UYLnXT5qb1yPbvJMktRQT5bI/s400/5.jpg" title="" width="400" /></a></div>
A shot of everything painted for the goblins to date. Missing the grass on a few bases, as I like to do a large bunch all at once, as it cuts down on needing to clean static grass up! Rexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17650208351837081612noreply@blogger.com0